Got the Fiero out of winter storage yesterday and the clutch had to be
pushed 100% to the floor before the transmission would disengage. I bleed
the system pulling new fluid through with a vacuum from the slave cylinder
and the problem is fixed...transmission disengages when clutch is depressed
50% or maybe 67% of the way to the floor. This morning it seems like the
clutch needs to be depressed a little more before transmission disengages,
maybe 75% to the floor. I'm guessing maybe bad (old) seals may be letting
air into the system??? If so, whats needed to correct the problem? Any way
of telling whether its in the master or the slave cylinders?
Rarely do the master cylinders for the clutch go out in those cars.
Depending on years and motor, it's the same slave cylinder as some other GM
vehicles. Do not try a used one, as it will probably not last.
I know they are a pain in the rear to bleed. Yet you really should do
this manually. Do not bench bleed them either.
Bleeding procedure I use. Pump clutch peddle 4 times, have assistant
hold clutch to floor. Bleed and close valve. Then pump up 4 times, and
repeat. Do this up to 15 times. Make sure you keep the clutch master
cylinder topped off. If you still have little to no pressure, then pump 10
to 15 times. Increase number of pumps as time goes on.
A pump on the clutch peddle is from all the way released, then pushed
all the way to the stop. Then released all the way.
On FWD J-cars I have found that a long T handle allen/hex key works
best for the bleeder valve.
First thing I would do is check for leaks. The master cylinder will leak
into the passenger compartment, so you'll need to stick your head
under the dash and have a look. If you can pull the boot back from
the cylinder, see if there is any brake fluid there.
Once you have figured out what you need to replace, you can
re-bleed it your way if it works. I found that on these vehicles,
you really need to bleed the system manually first, and then you
must open the bleed screw and manually force the slave cylinder
pushrod back into it's bore. This is really the only way to
get air completely out of the slave cylinder because of the
way it's situated.
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