Main Relay Replacement for Starting Problem '93 Accord

My '93 Accord occasionally refuses to start usually in hot weather. I can usually get it going after waiting for a period of time and several tries. After doing some research, the symptoms all point toward a possible main relay problem.

Question: I noticed the clock was off by several hours. I know that a disconnected or weak battery would cause this but the battery and connections are fine. When I try to start it, the engine cranks strongly, and I have not over cranked it and worn the battery down. How could the starting problem be related to the clock being so far off?

Thanks,

Rob

Reply to
Rob Kiz
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My '90 SM4 was meant for a cold climate & had many flaws ( so starting esp when hot was difficult ) e.g. ( too many to list all ) [i] ALB uses nearly 40 amp = ½ of alternator 's maximum output @ high rpm : even after I corrected / mitigated every flaw, ALB still uses too many amps, so I disabled ALB, only then battery & spark plugs can get enough amps. [ii] windows' motors' relay wasted amps, til bypassed [iii] injectors' resistors wasted 19.3 watt, I replaced them with a buck convertor & 5 inductors & 1 diode & 5 capacitors, only then can injectors be cool enough to stay clean so engine starts faster & torquer [iv] alternator had no cooling, I added cooling & got more amps [v] doors & boot & key slot's bulbs wasted amps, til removed [vi] EGR & air intake valve both wasted amps, til disabled. [vii] air intake heating all disabled, to suit a warm climate. [viii] wiper motor's plastic cover removed to let out hot air. Only now my F20A starts very well, slow idle torque is 2x of original, can idle stably ( w-o load ) @ just 550 rpm, on highway with coasting ( & nitrogen ) can go 18 km per litre of just RON95 !

Reply to
TE Cheah

Whoa, that was quite a mouthful!

Reply to
Cameo

Also his aluminum foil beanie shorted our the flux inverter.

Reply to
Gordon McGrew

That wasn't the orifice I was thinking of.

Reply to
Gordon McGrew

there's only one thing scarier than chea's ridiculous bullshit on this topic - the fact that he might actually believe it.

Reply to
jim beam

| Whoa, that was quite a mouthful!

1 easy way to tell if injectors' nozzles are clogged, is to connect a digital voltmeter to O2 sensor's output & see if voltage* is stable during idling ( w-o load ) : if clogged, * will fluctuate between -.1 to +.5 v, if clean then +.19 to +.32 v . Console should let users see this *, esp now when digital volt meters are far cheaper than in '90.
Reply to
TE Cheah

"TE Cheah" wrote in news:4d19d3be snipped-for-privacy@news.tm.net.my:

Where on earth do you get this nonsense?

The oxygen sensor should flip-flop regularly between +0.1 and +0.9 volts. Anything else means the sensor is bad.

And chances are good that a digial VOM will react far too slowly to accurately display the flip-flops, which occur several times a second at idle.

Reply to
Tegger

| Where on earth do you get this nonsense? Oscilloscopes are costly & bulky, my readings are from a japan made OKII-28 meter & I think are the averages of voltages read within each report interval. These readings make sense ; smaller fluctuation when nozzles are clean, & lower reading during idle.

| The oxygen sensor should flip-flop regularly between +0.1 and +0.9 volts. This is per

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but my meter can report 1.32 v during just slight (

Reply to
TE Cheah

"TE Cheah" wrote in news:4d1aaf3b$1 snipped-for-privacy@news.tm.net.my:

Honda does not use any such thing.

Carley's data generally applies to Honda O2 sensors. All oxygen sensors operate on the same basic principles.

The word "transitions" means the flip-flops between .1 and .9.

If you can't see the transitions, then you can't see what the sensor is doing.

Reply to
Tegger

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