There's labor involved as well, you know. Plus we don't know what the
garage had on their quote, so there may have been other parts (such as the
And $400 to have a proper job done the first time beats a much larger bill
to fix stuff that got screwed-up during a home project.
decent quality new rads are so cheap, and the consequences of losing
pressure and the subsequently boiling coolant warping your cylinder head
so bad, it's not worth not replacing - patching doesn't work.
as for replacement, it's not hard, but there's quite a few steps
involved. suggest buying the factory service manual from helm.com -
while not cheap, it'll help you with many other repairs and will pay for
get a decent after-market branded rad from somewhere like
autopartsworld.com. don't go with metal tanks, go with plastic like the
oem - modern antifreeze formulations don't work with the solder on those
when refilling, use distilled or deionized [not softened] water with the
antifreeze, not tap water.
you might need a lube on the coolant hoses for reassembly. don't use
oil based, use water based. ky works great.
Very easy to replace!
This used to be a zip file download only. Looks like you now have to
use Rapid Share (free) to get the zip file.
Look under "cooling" after download.
Here's a video showing one way to do the replacement without
having to remove the splash guard or jack up the car:
Well, ignore the 10/12 minute time limit. And the car he's
working on may not be a Honda, but the setup looks similar.
So basically he removes the upper hose at the radiator, but the
lower hose at the thermostat. Then the fan electical connectors.
And he disconnects the ATF lines up near the top of the
transmission - but still at a rubber hose connection. Then he
just pulls the whole thing out. Then he does all the
switching-over outside the car - the ATF hoses, the lower main
hose, and the fans - and puts it all back as a unit.
The main thing that's in the way is the A/C line that runs across
the front between the engine and the radiator, but looking at my
car it seems there's plenty of room to get the radiator assembly
out and back in.
So the only issues on the bottom would be the drain plug to drain
the coolant, which I can easily get to, and the fan connector on
the passenger side, which is down at the bottom. And then
putting it back in I would need to be sure the radiator is
resting correctly on the rubber cushions.
Aside from skinned nuckles and fluids all over the place, this
looks to me like it should work. And since I don't have jack
stands, and Tegger thinks I'm a danger to myself and society at
large anyway :-) maybe this is the best way to go.
Please let me know if you see a reason why this method won't work
on a Honda, or particular things I should look out for doing it
I don't jack up our cars, but that's only because everything's accessible
from the front (but /very/ snug from underneath).
OP has an Accord. I do believe his engine has its block drain at the rear
of the block, next to the oil filter. It would therefore be absolutely
necessary for him to jack up the car.
DO NOT change the coolant without removing the block drain!
> I don't jack up our cars, but that's only because
> everything's accessible from the front (but /very/ snug
> from underneath).
> OP has an Accord. I do believe his engine has its block
> drain at the rear of the block, next to the oil filter.
> It would therefore be absolutely necessary for him to
> jack up the car.
> DO NOT change the coolant without removing the block
Well, the coolant was changed last year, so I planned to
just reuse it if I can keep it clean when draining. Or if
not, just add new coolant to fill it up.
But the block drain issue aside, you agree that the radiator
assembly can be lifted out and replaced without having to
don't re-use. you'll not collect 100%, it'll be full of debris, oil
drips and other stuff as it falls out of the car, and you'd have to have
a good filter to clean it. simply not worth it when you can buy new for
yup, just like it shows you in the vid.
i would also recommend you hose out under the hood when you're done.
antifreeze can be corrosive if left exposed to air.
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