Need advice on radiator replacement

then do it yourself. oh, wait, you're too busy telling other people what they're doing...

Oh, I haven't done the job? WRONG. And the bottom line is, it's STUPID to disconnect them from the tranny. Double work.

Ah, I didn't do the job Mr. Knowitall. You sure do assume a lot of shit.

Oh, and 2 other people at the shop looked at the belts and couldn't believe that there wasn't any visible wear.

It's not my car, moron. Back to the KF.

you haven't done this job ron - otherwise you'd know you can't get at the other end of the transmission cooler hoses because the fab cowlings are in the way.

have y'self a nice little day now, y'hear?

well, disbelief certainly seems to be a factor with you ron, i'll give you that.

like i said, you don't know what you're talking about.

nor does this belt.

or does it?

typo: f-a-n

There is NOTHING in the way. Do I need to take another picture from underneath my car to prove you wrong?

Here's a video showing one way to do the replacement without having to remove the splash guard or jack up the car:

Well, ignore the 10/12 minute time limit. And the car he's working on may not be a Honda, but the setup looks similar.

So basically he removes the upper hose at the radiator, but the lower hose at the thermostat. Then the fan electical connectors. And he disconnects the ATF lines up near the top of the transmission - but still at a rubber hose connection. Then he just pulls the whole thing out. Then he does all the switching-over outside the car - the ATF hoses, the lower main hose, and the fans - and puts it all back as a unit.

The main thing that's in the way is the A/C line that runs across the front between the engine and the radiator, but looking at my car it seems there's plenty of room to get the radiator assembly out and back in.

So the only issues on the bottom would be the drain plug to drain the coolant, which I can easily get to, and the fan connector on the passenger side, which is down at the bottom. And then putting it back in I would need to be sure the radiator is resting correctly on the rubber cushions.

Aside from skinned nuckles and fluids all over the place, this looks to me like it should work. And since I don't have jack stands, and Tegger thinks I'm a danger to myself and society at large anyway :-) maybe this is the best way to go.

Please let me know if you see a reason why this method won't work on a Honda, or particular things I should look out for doing it this way.

That is pretty much the way Tegger said to do it.

On the passenger side slide out the plastic coolant reservoir, the plug-in to the fan is right underneath it. At least it is on my car.

Ron wrote in news:476a6118-e158-48d9-9625-53d944efd491 @m7g2000vbn.googlegroups.com:

I don't jack up our cars, but that's only because everything's accessible from the front (but /very/ snug from underneath).

OP has an Accord. I do believe his engine has its block drain at the rear of the block, next to the oil filter. It would therefore be absolutely necessary for him to jack up the car.

DO NOT change the coolant without removing the block drain!

yes you do. and it'll show that if you can access from underneath, then the plastic air ducting is missing. but why unclip two hoses from on top and list the radiator out when you can lie on your back and f*ck about with 10 plastic plugs, damage 6 of them, and get covered in crud from the debris the ducting contains? because you say you've done this before and have figured out how to do it better than how it says to do it in the manual. great job ron - thanks for sharing your valuable expertise.

but but but it's /not/ the way you said to do it ron. that must be one of those fake youtube videos put out by some malicious viral marketer of aftermarket radiator hose clamps...

ah, so you finally bothered to look in the book. maybe you should post a how-to on youtube?

Well, the coolant was changed last year, so I planned to just reuse it if I can keep it clean when draining. Or if not, just add new coolant to fill it up.

But the block drain issue aside, you agree that the radiator assembly can be lifted out and replaced without having to get underneath?

Peabody wrote in news:20101213-044720.416.0 @news.cox.net:

Yes.

Peabody wrote in news:20101213-044720.416.0 @news.cox.net:

Add new coolant of the exact same manufacturer and type as the original. Do not re-use old coolant.

You're going to lose all but a quart of the old coolant when you pull the rad.

don't re-use. you'll not collect 100%, it'll be full of debris, oil drips and other stuff as it falls out of the car, and you'd have to have a good filter to clean it. simply not worth it when you can buy new for $10.

yup, just like it shows you in the vid.

i would also recommend you hose out under the hood when you're done. antifreeze can be corrosive if left exposed to air.