filter every other time? that's not clever.
> and drain plugs = $26.00
you're either dishonest or delusional. you've stated many times how you
do your changes yourself every 3k, 4.5k for synthetic. now here you are
suddenly at 6k.
actually, based on my usage, i go 12k.
i'd much rather introduce you to reality. for a 6k change interval,
over 24k we can still say:
4 x $15 = $60 for the blind faith approach.
2 x $15 = $30
+ 1 analysis $27.50 [only needs to be done every 30-50k]
that's $57.50. analysis still saves you money.
over 48k we have
8 x $15 = $120 blind faith.
4 x $15 = $60
+ 2 x analysis = $55
that's $115 saving money /and/ knowing the health of your engine. seems
like a real easy decision to make to me.
On Sun, 18 May 2008 15:23:41 -0700, jim beam wrote:
TWELVE THOUSAND MILES?!?!?!?!
And you have the balls to lecture *ME* on 'proper oil changes'?
I am pretty sure the manual indicates something much less than 12,000
And, all the people that came in with sludged Camry and Sienna engines?
Guess how often they changed their oil? Gee, it was 12,000 miles (or
more)! And the manual said 7,500. Luckily for them, Toyota footed the bill
for their negligence.
People who followed the maintenance schedule had minimal (accetable)
sludge levels, and the ones smart enough to change every 3,000 miles had
no build-up at all.
Honda's Owner's Manula for a 2001 Accord says:
Replace Engine Oil Replace every 7,500 miles (12,000 km) or 12
On Sun, 18 May 2008 20:13:25 -0700, jim beam wrote:
We're talking about people who don't do frequent enough oil changes. Looks
like you're in that club. These were the people that came into the Service
Dep't with sludged engines. Why? They didn't follow the Manufacturer's
recommendation. The manual for a Camry and a Sienna said 7,500. They
didn't so it and got sludged engines. People who did <7,500 rarely had
sludge. Who gives a fuck about oil analysis if you're exceeding the MFG'd
Spend a little money and change your friggin' oil!
Also, tell me where you are so I know not to buy a car from you.
er, it's analysis that /determines/ the manufacturer's recommendation.
once the analysis is done, they do the stats on covering the maximum
reasonable user base, then set a change interval. a few may need to
change it sooner. but the majority can last longer. if you do the
analysis, you'll know just /how much/ longer.
On Sun, 18 May 2008 21:00:19 -0700, jim beam wrote:
Tell that to all the people that came in with sludged Toyota engines.
They didn't follow the MFG's reccomendation.
Some of the ones that did had minimal sludging, but most of them were
using shit oil.
The ones that changed the oil every 3,000 miles had no sludge.
The Honda engineers don't suggest a filter change every oil change.
So why do you all of a sudden, given your blind following of their
Or you're crazy as hell.
You have lost your damn mind because I never said that at all.
Awesome....good luck with that.
And now I wonder why you get so pissy with everyone when they question the
oil change intervals recommended ( or actually not recommended by since its
buried in the "maintenance Minder" ).
If you don't even follow the Honda guidelines, then you should shut your
damn piehole the next time you feel the need to foam at the ass when someone
(like me!) does it differently.
Read that again, rinse, and repeat over and over until you get it, son.
This should be interesting coming from you....carry on...
$2.50 in savings.
Wow...maybe I'll get a 2L Pepsi and a sandwich with all that money.
No...reality says that your scenario saves a whopping $5.00 over the course
of 48K miles.
And doing so on a vehicle that can cost over $30,000 dollars, doing dino oil
changes every 12k miles.
No, thats not exactly true...oil analysis is by no means a complete engine
If you think so, then knock yourself out.
I generally run my cars no more than 5 miles per trip, and I try to plan
it so trips are 10 miles or more. This gives the oil a chance to get warm
enough to deal with any contaminents built up from starting and helps to
keep it from turning acidic longer. I also try to run my cars as fast as
possible (observing local laws, of course) generally 40-50 MPH wherever I
go. I live in a rural area so it's easy to do. All this helps the oil
better than a number of 2-3 mile trips with long stops in between, or stop
and start driving.
And I still change dino oil at 3,000 and synth at 4,500.
Dude..slow the hell down...seriously...do yourself a favor and do it now.
Drive the speed limit, please.
All it takes is one accident or someone coming into the road and your life
will forever be changed.
Seriously...as a man, the coolest thing I can do as a driver is obey the
speed limits, and I invite you to join me.
Its hard as hell to do, no doubt, especially with a goddamn Supra.
But seriously...listen to what I am saying and do everyone a favor.
This might also explain partly why you were in an accident....
I drive like I expect *EVERYONE* to fuck up, and to do so right in front of
***THAT*** is how you are supposed to drive.
Okay...you're a grown man so I can't stop you, but I am asking you to do so,
I don't use dino, and I agree with the synth change like you do...maybe
5,000k if I can't get to it and all that.
On Fri, 16 May 2008 23:35:49 +0000, Jim Yanik wrote:
Probably. But the number one recommendation to owners worrying about
sludging was, "Change the oil regularly, and NO LATER than 7,500 miles."
In rare cases we would flush the engines with BG Flush, and on *really*
rare occasions the engine would have to have the head removed.
Won' stop it, but it most definately helps keep it to a minimum.
Pennzoil has a new one that is supposed to *reverse* sludging.
I plan on switching to Mobil 1 as soon as I get thru this first new car
factory oil period.
I wonder how much we would save each year in barrels if everyone used
Good question. It also depends on the formulation. Mobil One is, I
believe a "Full" synthetic. I have been using Castrol Syntec (I've been
using Castrol GTX for >25 years) but I recently found out it is not a
full synthetic, but is made from by-products from the refining process,
so it is based on dino oil. No one really seems to be able to tell me the
difference. I guess from looking around that a true synthetic breaks down
less that a dino based synthetic, and is more 'slippery'. But that's from
websties, nothing official.
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