Now that I've looked at the correct schematic, I see it's pretty much the
same as the Accent anyway. The fact that whatever it was you did at the
crank sensor wires caused a spark I would think means that the system is
capable of producing spark once it sees this signal.
I've heard of cases of the wheel coming loose from the crankshaft. If
your the end of the old sensor is damaged, that may be the problem. Even
if it isn't damaged, it may be worthwhile to pull the sensor out and
attempt to move the wheel with a screwdriver to see if it's loose.
I've seen cases where the crank and cam were enough out of time for the
engine to not fire. Pull the upper timing cover and check the cam
sprocket for proper position. If it's okay, break the cam sprocket bolt
loose (don't take it out, just loose enough so that it will turn freely).
Have someone crank the engine and watch to see that the bolt and sprocket
both turn. If the sprocket turns, but the bolt doesn't, that means the
alignment dowel has broken and the camshaft is out of position with the
sprocket (usually caused by the camshaft seizing in the head). I've seen
this on some cars that were starved for oil for one reason or another.
It seems you're on the right track here, that it's an issue with the crank
sensor. Actually, I think I may have an idea. With the crank sensor in,
disconnect the cam sensor. If the coil sparks when you crank the engine,
there would definitely be a timing issue between the crank and cam
sensors; i.e. disconnecting the cam sensor removed the confusing issue.
Keep in mind that if this is the case, the car still won't start, you will
have simply verified that the camshaft isn't properly timed with the crank.
At this point, since you have no codes, my gut feeling is that you have a
mechanical issue. But, then again, it's difficult when I'm not actually
looking at the car.