If it pings on hills, that indicates that you need higher octane fuel
than whatever's in the tank. Unless it's always pinged on regular, it's
quite possible that the pinging is due to carbon buildup on the valves
and cylinder head(s). Carbon deposits create hot spots and increase
compression. Higher octane fuel is required to compensate for those
Modern engines as in the Sonata have computerized control over ignition
and valve timing and automatically retard the timing if pinging occurs,
so you'd never even know it's happening. The engines are designed
specifically to run on 87 octane fuel and using higher octane is not
good for them. Higher octane fuels burn more slowly. If they're used in
an engine that's designed for faster-burning, lower-octane fuel, they
don't burn efficiently. Inefficient combustion leads to deposit buildup
in the engine. With modern engines and modern fuels, the worst thing you
can do is to run premium in an engine designed for regular. There is
absolutely no advantage to doing so. It cruds up your engine AND it pay
extra for the fuel that's doing the damage. It's your basis lose-lose
Well, it's more a lie of ommission. They do have additives in their
premium gas, but what they're not telling you is that they're in their
regular gas, too. The old mechanic's solution "run a tank of premium
through your engine to clean it" simply doesn't apply anymore. Modern
fuels do an excellent job of keeping engines clean. That's why fuel
additives - other than those designed to remove water - are largely a
waste of money. You can remove water from your tank using denatured
alcohol that's a fraction of the price of Drygas and similar products.
This is also true of oil additives; they're unnecessary and often
counterproductive. Modern oils contain finely-tuned additive packages
that are based on the needs of the engine. Dumping a bottle of "Amazing
Snake Oil" into your crankcase is not only not helpful, it can disrupt
the balance of additives and result in lower protection for your engine.
Some, such as those that contain Teflon (which Dupont say IS NOT
suitable for use inside an engine) can actually cause blockages in the
fine oil pathways found in newer engines, resulting is serious engine
The bottom line is that the manufacturer of your engine has invested
tens of millions of dollars (or more) in developing it. They KNOW what
it needs for fuel and lubricants. Follow their recommendations and you
can't go wrong.
Now there ya go - expecting the unreasonable. Why would anyone possibly
think it might be more appropriate to do something for one's self such as
read an owner's manual, or even perhaps go on-line to the Hyundai web site
when it is so much easier to just post a question to a newsgroup? I can see
you are a man of high demands and expectations.
Oh no, you're not going to sucker me into a re-hash of that old argument! :)
I'm not one to follow any advice blindly. I usually run things through my
own filters. But in this case, the manufacturer recommends the most
economical** oil, and I'm following their recommendations.
**Economical, in this case, is what's best to use over the life of the car.
There are arguably better lubricants out there than the manufacturer
recommends. However, they do not make economic sense except in EXTREMELY
harsh and unusual conditions.
The best analogy I can think of is a common 16 penny nail. You can get
steel, and stainless steel versions. Which is best? Well, obviously
stainless is "better". But,,, you have to ask yourself why they are not
used to frame up houses. Now if someone tells me they framed up their house
with SS nails, I swear I'm going to jump!
There are countless Toyota R22 engines out there with 500K* miles on them
that have never felt the agony of head removal, and never tasted Mobil1.
500K miles is a lot of oil changes, and a lot of dollars, even for dino oil.
*Idiots! If they had used Mobil1, they could have suffered with their old
pickup truck another 10 years!
Yes, if you base better purely on economics, then I don't disagree,
especially if you don't plan to keep the car much beyond 200,000 miles.
Personally, I make my "better" decisions on a range of factors with
economy being only one of those factors. Then again, folks that buy a
Hyundai in the first place are already pretty much making a statement
that they are cheap! :-)
But SS isn't better in every regard. A rusted steel nail has much
greater holding power than an SS nail. Also, SS is often softer than
steel and will bend more easily while being driven. So, you simply
can't say that SS is better than plain old steel. On the other hand,
synthetic oil IS better than dino oil in every parameter I can think of
EXCEPT for cost.
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