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Window switching: 2000 Sonata

Background: My driver's door window assembly conked out for the usual reason: cable jumped the guide and snarled, unfixable. I replaced the assembly. Of course, in the process, I had to disturb the switches and wires in and around the door panel.

---------------------------------------------- Soon after the driver's door repair, the switch in the driver's door for the left rear window would not operate both up and down. The local switch on the left rear door works this window fine.

Now, in addition, the driver's door switch won't work the other rear window (right rear) to close it (up). It will lower the window. As with the opposite side, the local switch on the right rear door works this window up/down fine.

I believe that HT once wrote to someone else with a similar problem that this failure usually occurs in the flexed wiring between the driver's door and the car body. I assume that this is my problem too. It's either this or it's bad switches or failed contact at removable connectors. But I have not experienced these types of failure with other cars that I've owned. In my life, such switches and connectors have tended to be trustworthy.

I'd like to know what's a good, recommended procedure for fixing these problems. I'm suspecting broken flexed wires near the front driver's door jamb, and would like some advice as to how to go about it.

TIA.

Richard

Reply to
Richard Steinfeld
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From the master switch, the same wiring is used for lowering or raising a window. The switch simply reverses the polarity to move the window in the opposite direction. So, just based on the right rear window symptom, it seems that you have an issue in the master switch. The schematic seems to suggest that this cannot be the cause of both symptoms, but if we suppose that the circuit inside the switch is shown incorrectly-- I've actually seen that before-- there could be a break in the power or ground circuit inside the switch that could cause all your symptoms.

There's also the possibility that there could be a short in the right rear switch that could cause the issue with the rear window controlled by that switch, but it would have to fix itself when the switch is operated. This just doesn't seem like a probable scenario. In the case of the left rear, it'd need to be an open that fixes itself. Again, doesn't seem likely.

If this occurred after I'd just after I'd made such a repair, I'd also check to be sure the connectors are properly installed in the rear of the master switch.

If you do have a broken wire, I recommend repairing by soldering in a length of appropriate gauge wire. But don't locate the solder joint(s) inside the flexible boot. The solder joint will be a stiff area, causing the wire to always bend just prior to/after the solder joint. Instead, make one solder joint inside the door and another inside the car, running the new wire completely through the boot.

Reply to
hyundaitech

Thank you, HT. It's good stuff to know. When I get a round tuit, I'll apply an "electronics-type" approach and look for some sort of "line-in-common," perhaps a ground, around the driver's door switches (since the switches in both rear doors are doing what they should). Nice to see you again. I've been gone; just published a book about phonograph cartridges.

Reply to
Richard Steinfeld

The only potential commonality I saw in the schematic was inside the master switch, and then only if the wiring inside the switch didn't exactly follow the path/order indicated in the diagram.

Reply to
hyundaitech

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