XJS Advice?

Looking at purchasing a 1990 Rouge edition.

What should I be looking out for? Things I should run away from?

Looks like the mileage is pretty low, around 62K. Checks out through Carfax as legit though.

Thanks!

Alex

Reply to
Alex
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"Alex" skrev i meddelandet news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com...

Hi Alex,

No 1. Look for RUST. Sills, subframe, trunk and floor. No 2. Make sure everything mechanics are working. No 3. Make sure everything electrics are working. No 4. Make sure ACC is fully working and filled up. No 5. Make sure you can afford to feed her with petrol/gasoline!

Go to JagLovers Forum to get more info about XJS.

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Pepe

Reply to
Pepe

Hi Alex

I'm currently rebuilding a V12 and know the bodywork intimately ...If I was to walk up to an XJS to inspect it, here's where I'd go..

  1. Rear wheel arches, check the ends of the sills as the big tyres throw stones up and chip underseal away.

  1. Look just underneath the car at the ends of the rear sills and check that there is no rust around the suspension mountings. Any rust here will involve welding and the removal of the suspension arm - The bolts always snap off and will have to be drilled and tapped.

  2. Check the front wheel arches at the sill side, again big wheels throw up stones. There is a protective plate here but it just seems to trap mud behind, assisting in the corrosion problem. You can double check this by trying to slightly pull the bottom of the wing where it meets the sill. It should be solid but frequently can be pulled away from the body. If the wing can be pulled then rest assured, more welding is needed.

  1. Lift the bonnet and look at the shock-absorber hump in the inner wing - I have seen a few with rust here.

Let me know if your looking at a V12 and I'll tell you all about them. If (And I will be disappointed if you say yes) you are going for one of the little engines then I'm sorry but can't advise.

Best Wishes and Merry Xmas

Stu

Reply to
Stuart Adair

Thanks for all the info, it will come in handy.

Is the V12 a bad thing? With only 62,000 on the engine I was hoping that it should be healthy for quite a bit longer.

I've been fascinated with 12 cylinder cars since seeing a Ferrari when I was a child. I'll never be able to afford the Ferrari, but could manage a used Jag, or BMW 750.

Best regards,

Alex Baker

Reply to
Alex

I'd be very interested in knowing more about the V12.

The car I'm looking at has 62,000 miles on the clock.

Best regards,

Alex

Reply to
Alex

Hi Alex,

Luckily the V12 is virtually indestructible and contrary to popular belief, not that bad to work on.

Its biggest weakness seems to be oil leaks and over heating, so make sure you have a really good luck underneath, particularly where the engine and gearbox meet as the rear crank seal wont be pleasant to change (Engine and Gearbox out).

Make sure it gets nice and hot and the temp gauge should stay in the Normal, anything going towards the top could spell radiator trouble - Nothing serious to change though.

With the engine cold the oil pressure should be about 50 lbs, and hot at idle about 15 - 20 lbs. Make sure that the gauge goes up when you rev the hot engine.

One of the other problems that I have heard of happening a lot is a sticking auxiliary air valve. The symptoms are the revs bounce between 400 and 1400 revs as the engine warms up, but it runs fine once warm. These are expensive at dealers but there are plenty around 2nd hand and they are really easy to change.

So in summary, make sure you start the engine from cold (Its a common scam to warm the engine up when a buyer comes), check for oil leaks, oil pressure and temperature.

Have a happy new year.

Stu

Reply to
Stuart Adair

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