I have a 1992 Jeep Wrangler, 5 speed Manual, 4.0L, 6 cylinder. The engine turns but the car won't start in the morning. Then, a rattling noise comes from the power distribution center. Once that noise stops the car starts with no problem what so ever. It starts fine the rest of the day. The maintenance required light is on at all times. Any help is very much appreciated in this matter.
turns but the car won't start in the morning. Then, a rattling noise comes from the power distribution center. Once that noise stops the car starts with no problem what so ever. It starts fine the rest of the day. The maintenance required light is on at all times. Any help is very much appreciated in this matter.
Yes, this is what was rattling this morning "the fuel pump relay" and the car did not start till it stopped. So, is it a matter of replacing the fuel pump relay? or is this an indication of a bigger problem
Where abouts are you, and how cold are your winters? :)
If water or condensation has somehow gotten into the relay, it could be freezing over night. When it goes to energise when you crank the engine first thing in the morning, the ice may be causing issues.. just a thought :)
I have changed the fuel pump relay and the rattling noise is still there and comes on a lot faster. Does that mean it is time to change the starter like L.W. (Bill) Hughes III has suggested? Plus, I lost the serpetine belt today while driving and the car overheated, but turned it off in time.
I would like to say thank you for everyone for helping me up to now. I would appreciate any comments on what I have written so far
comes on a lot faster. Does that mean it is time to change the starter like L.W. (Bill) Hughes III has suggested? Plus, I lost the serpetine belt today while driving and the car overheated, but turned it off in time.
appreciate any comments on what I have written so far.
You have likely found the trouble. The belt was going bad so the battery wasn't fully charged. That will make the rattle noise in relays.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
comes on a lot faster. Does that mean it is time to change the starter like L.W. (Bill) Hughes III has suggested? Plus, I lost the serpetine belt today while driving and the car overheated, but turned it off in time.
appreciate any comments on what I have written so far.
L.W (Bill) I appologize for misunderstanding your statement about having to change the starter. I of course changed the belt, both idle pulley tensioners since they were not
rotating what so ever. But, don't have a belt tension gauge. How much of a play when I press down on top of the belt I should see
Again, I would like to thank everyone for your time and valuable contributions
L.W (Bill) thank you for your reply. I have bought a brand new battery and put it in, but the rattling noise is still there and when I first turn the ignition switch the battery voltage reads around 12 or little bit before the third thin bar. When I start the car it goes
all the way up to 14 V or little bit before it
How can I check to see if the Alternator needs to be changed? I have double checke
the belt tension and it is around half an inch.
Thank you for everyone's help. It has been very much appreciated
it in, but the rattling noise is still there and when I first turn the ignition switch the battery voltage reads around 12 or little bit before the third thin bar. When I start the car it goes
You are still describing not enough power to start the engine. This is 'usually' caused by a dirty main battery cable connection. The cables get corroded at the battery end and at the block end and at the power distribution end and at the starter end.
If any one of these are dirty, the power had to arc to pass. This means the first or second shot with the key only lets enough power to pass to start relays rattling, not enough to also turn the starter.
You might want to try it next time with the hood open. Try to get it to rattle a couple times, then go and 'carefully' feel the main battery terminal ends. If you find a hot one, you have found a bad connection. be careful, the connections 'can' get hot enough to burn when they arc.
The 12V and 14V you see imply the alternator is working.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
it in, but the rattling noise is still there and when I first turn the ignition switch the battery voltage reads around 12 or little bit before the third thin bar. When I start the car it goes
Okay, none of the battery terminals were hot and I am getting the Maintenance required light is on, horn no longer works eventhough I exchanged the horn relay with a new one and the right turn signal does not flash. just stays on
I have cleaned the baettery cables terminals, as well as the terminals on the starter. The car now does not start whenever it gets cold. If I leave it to cool down and try to start it, the same thing happens
I have changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor just in case since I was not getting any spark when the engine was turning I have changed the Starter and I am still having the same problem. Whenever the car is cold or have cooled down it won't start. I have to wait at least 5 to 10 minutes before the PCM activates things
I am thinking of changing the Camshaft position sensor next, but I am weary of doin
that since these parts are very expensive here in the Middle East. 1 1/2 to 2 times th price in the USA
I'd really appreciate any help on this matter. I am basically not sure which way to g
I deleted several posts so I am sorry, I do not know what other replies would have been to this, forgive me if I repeat something that someone else has suggested.
Sometimes just throwing parts at a problem can be more expensive than taking your rig in to thew shop. By throwing parts at an unknown issue, you are essentially wasting your time and money. It may be time to bite the bullet and take it in to a shop and have it diagnosed.
You say below that you changed the CPS "just in case you are not getting spark" when the engine is running. Have you not checked for spark? That there is a biggie! Do you know how? Get two pairs of rubber handled pliers Remove a plug wire from the spark plug, Pull the boot back from the tip of the plug wire if you can If not use a piece of wire like a paperclip. Be sure it is bent into a U so it will get contact. Stuff it into the end of the plug wire so it gets good contact with the metal tip on the plug wire. Set it where it will not touch anything metal or electrical and start the vehicle. Hold the tip of the wire close to the engine block where it's metal and look for spark.
Have you checked your fuel pressure, fuel filter, rotor, distributor cap, coil ?
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.