4.0 manifold crack !

casca did pass the time by typing:

It will eventually crack again.

There are no OEM aftermarket, just dealer like

or

That was my choice. Banks, Gibson, etc. Watch for the fit, only a few are "direct replacement" the others require fabrication of a new downpipe or replacement to the cat.

I went with the Banks header. Had a little problem with the motor mount though. Nothing the ol angle grinder couldn't fix.

need to do a better write-up, that's just some images I did forthe folks at Banks so they could look at how it fit. Also look into is a class action lawsuit against DC for this particular issue. Might want to see what kind of a deal Jeep will cut you on replacement.

be aware there is a class action suit going on right now for tj manifold cracks and it applies to your '97. see

go get paid.

I put a Borla header on a friend's '97 that had cracked. Installation was about what i expected, took close to six hours. Only problem i had was i didn't torque the manifold bolts enough, had an incredibly high idle when i started it. Sounded better than stock (NO MORE TICKING!!!!) and gave some pep to the low-end. Cost more than the other headers, but i only wanted to do the job once.

Don W

'82 CJ8 Scrambler AMC 360 T/F 727 Dana 300 One-piece model 20 rear Dana 30 front, upgraded to 6-bolt caliper and Warn hubs, awaiting locker

2" shackle lift/reversal 2" lift springs of unknown origin 33" Mickey's

And it finally runs!!!!!

OK.... again I'm gonna ask you to excuse my mechanical ignorance... But I'm learning from everything I ask you good ppl..... exhaust manifold and header= same thing????? I ask 'cause my '95 ZJ cracked last year and was welded is getting loud again and not sure I'll get by my this years inspection the way it is.... I'm planning to beef the ZJ up...lift,tires and a few other lil' goodies ... K&N, new exhaust (maybe performance) etc.... so an upgrade to header might be a good time??

Thank you everyone! Jeff

Jeff did pass the time by typing:

yep.

The welds just don't hold for very long, usually they just crack right next to the new weld. I have yet to hear of any reworked header lasting.

Well, getting at the header isn't hard if you have a good selection of extensions and a swivel or two. I got the header off on mine with just a wrench.

(from a prior email to the ZJ list digest)

There is lots of room but watch the torque spec. It's 24 ft.lbs on all but the outer two bolts that get 17. Too much out there and you risk distorting the block, it's thin at those spots.

Used a squirt of PB blaster on the bolts before removing but even then it only took a box wrench to get them out. You don't even have to remove the fuel rail if your careful.

Order and torque spec

9 8 3 10 11 6 4 2 1 5 7

1-5 24 ft.lbs

6-7 17 ft.lbs 8-11 24 ft.lbs

with the banks your not going to get a torque wrench on #1 no matter how hard you try. I used a box wrench and reached in between the header and block.

If you do pull the rail, replace the injector O rings, NAPA has the parts (three bags) for about 9$. A little spit on the rings helps them slide into the head and the rail. Fit to the rail first then evenly work the assembly into the intake manifold.

OK, now you got me wondering, would the header be that much better than the stock stainless manifold you sent a link for? ( which they plenty of in stock- we sell plenty of those was the reply) Also, my used warranty may cover this!! Now here is the kicker - may have to trailer it to the dealer. BECAUSE IF I DRIVE IT IN * IT WILL BE OUT OF WARRANTY * OVER IN MILEAGE* TALK ABOUT A CLOSE CALL.

> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O> > > mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com > >

casca did pass the time by typing:

If your that close in mileage, call the shop first and explain. Tell them you have had the problem for a while but just recently discovered what it was. They have some leniency in how they handle claims and a few miles (heck even a few hundred) should not make a difference.

Figure the OEM version will last about as long as the previous one. What it boils down to is a couple of questions.

1) Do you want to do it yourself or have someone else do it? 2) How long are you going to keep the Jeep?

That and remember that a dealer install comes with a 12 Month warrantee.

On the other hand, self installs come with a lifetime warrantee and usually an assortment of new tools. :)

thanks for the info about the class action lawsuit. Everyone that has had this problem should look at this website!

cal

It never ceases to amaze me why it takes so long for an improvement/fix to such problems. No wonder the Japanese are kicking our @sses in this arena. Then the motto is "Buy American" but American manufactures don't seem to give a rat's @ss about their consumer base.

Bill

Sadly, with GM that's not always true:

-John

When mine went, the dealer installed the "new" type, with the bellows, which has not yet cracked up.

Of course, I'm heading back out to Utah this summer, so that's the real test.

That and the CD player. I've yet to have an OEM CD play survive the dust/heat it gets out there. Now that i'm out of warranty, this one gets replaced with something non OEM..

alan

80k on my 98 TJ, I replaced the first exhaust manifold at 36K with a borla. Well i was doing the oil today and i noticed the borla is cracked. same fing spot as the factory, so much for a million mile warranty. I am going to call Boral on Monday and see how there warranty service works. Hey I all ready got the tools from the First time I did it.

Something not right 3 headers in less than 100k wtf is wrong with these headers