2.5L Lifters

Its not too hard to do. A few things to keep in mind though. Keep the old parts that you are going to reuse in order. Pushrods, rocker arms, fulcrums, etc. all develop wear patterns, and mixing them could result in accelerated engine wear. Also,,, clean everything ral good and put some type of lube on the parts when you put them back in. Camshaft break-in lube on the lifter faces that ride on the cam is a good idea. I also use a lube called Lubriplate 105 when I reassemble valvetrain and other components that need lubrication to prevent a dry start. Other than that, good luck.

Chris

Well.. I got the valve cover off and the inside looks good.. No sludge at

100,000 miles.. I must be doing something right.. LOL.

Also, I noticed that the valve cover is metal not plastic.. I am the original owner of this Jeep and I know it is factory.. Was there a time when they made some with plastic and some that was metal?? Oh well.. Back to get my hands greasy...

Ben

accelerated

Your lifters are bad after only 100K miles??????

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ben wrote:

-Brian

Well. It had 2 bad lifters.. I am like you.. I thought that bad lifters at

100K was not right.. But I also had a oil sending unit explode at 15K miles so anything can happen.. It is all back together and purring like a kitten now.. My next project is to change out the brakes.. They are original.. They look fine, but getting to the point of needing to be changed.. Now explain that one.. 100K on the original brakes...

Ben

95 YJ 2.5L

Ben did pass the time by typing:

Your probably a good driver that doesn't race everyone to the stop light or follow so close on the highway you have to use the brake.

L.W. (ßill) Hughes III did pass the time by typing:

Could even be tire size. Stopping 33's is going to put much more wear on the system than stock wheels ever would.