L.W. (ßill) Hughes III did pass the time by typing:
That's because AOL uses some substantial spam blocking.
Cox OTOH doesn't seem to do squat, although they claim to be doing some blocking and are gearing up to allow blocking on a customer configured basis.
Odd are they will try to charge for the service. :/
Actually, since you see the stabilizers on most later model 4x4's=20 (but not most other vehicles) I would SPECULATE that they are=20 there to cut the shock loading to the steering wheel and driver=20 when you hit a rock or pot hole. Without one, the steering wheel=20 will spin violently, the front wheel will twist up against it's=20 stop. Not a good thing at any kind of speed. The old tractors=20 commonly had a steering knob bolted to the steering wheel, quite=20 a few broken wrists as a result. Power steering calms this down a=20 lot, but you still can get quite a bit of feed back from the wheels.
Oh, and I can easily block the virus loads with a decent anti=20 virus. The problem was that I do not have 'always > AKA Roy,
Since this seems to be the argument of the week, I went off and=20 did some calculations. Sigh. I hate being an engineer.
A while back there was a guy from the east coast, helicopter=20 pilot, etc that had a built TJ (sorry I can't pull up his name)=20 and we got into the discussion of DW on the TJ. He finally=20 convinced me that big tires need LESS caster than stock tires=20 (say about 5 degrees) rather than the 6 to 7 degrees on the=20 various shop specs. And that the toe in on big tires needs to be=20 as close to zero as you can get and still be toe in.
The OP stated that he has the 1" lift Confer shackles (that are=20
2" longer than stock) Sin (2"/45") is 2.56 degrees. So the OP is=20 shorting himself 2.5 degrees on the caster (unless he has added=20 the appropriate shims of course) Every inch lowering in the front=20 shaves another .6 degree off the caster. So if he hits the brakes=20 and gets 3" of front dive, he shaves another 2 degrees off the=20 caster. If he has any permamanet spring wrap, he will shave off=20 some more. (35" tires and a D60 probably means he pushes it a=20 little!)The OP stated that he has high mileage on his 35" tires. Most of=20 us have not solved the problem of perfect wear on big tires so=20 I'll assume that they are not worn evenly. He did not state if he=20 had balanced them lately but even then, did he shuck a wheel weight?
The OP has the reversed tie rod , this changes things from what=20 most of us run.
Th OP told Dynatrac about his vehicle, did he indicate he was=20 going to use the Confer shackles? And does Dynatrac set up the=20 axle for a specified caster angle??? Ie do they do factory stock=20 or what works??
When we tackle a harmonic vibration problem (and this is a=20 special case of the general theory) we have 4 basic methods to=20 deal with things:
1) change the freqeuency of the system 2) "Stiffen" the system to move the harmonic up higher. 3) Dampen the system 4) Reduce the input energy at the vibration frequency to keep if=20 from going off.In a Jeep, #1 is tough, it has to move through a range of=20 frequencies (speeds)
#2 involves tightening up the slop in the system (tie rod ends,=20 ball joints, heavier tie rod, etc) Plus you need enough toe in to=20 keep the system preloaded one direction.
#3 is the infamous steering stabilzer.
#4 is mostly from the tires. They need to be dynamicly balanced=20 at the frequency in question (about 60 mph) AND they need to be=20 round and straight. Keep in mind that 35" tires run almost 100=20 pounds a piece, I have seen them worn down with up to 1/4" cups=20 and waves in them. Lots of side energy available here.
Net: I'll sit here and speculate that the actual caster is way=20 less than the OP thinks it is, that the tires are worn and out of=20 balance (not a lot but enough!), that he hit the brakes and a=20 bump with a bit of a turn, the whole works started to shake, and=20 the steering stabilzer was not up to the job of getting control=20 back. Take your choice of fixes, I personally prefer naturally=20 stable systems to ones that are subject to failure from the=20 fatigue of a single component.
Cheers.
CRWLR wrote:
That sounds like Harry B.
---------------------------------------------------- Del Rawlins- del@_kills_spammers_rawlinsbrothers.org Remove _kills_spammers_ to reply via email. Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ website:
They would be if some of the height is gained by using the lift shackles. I was looking at these as a cheap way to lift my YJ, but it didn't take an engineer to tell me that lifing one end of the springs is going to rotate the axle and thus change the castor angles.
-- Old Crow '82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl' '95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1 TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51
I have an ISP provider that offers NO spam control options. And I am wedded to that provider for other reasons that tend to raise my blood pressure. I'd switch in a minute if I could.
My ISP only allows 2 e-mail boxes, both are in use. Most good ones allow 10 or so, makes it easy to change addresses when the spam traffic gets too heavy. Use two for business, rest can be used for public exposure.
I have software that allows me to look at and delete the messages while still on the POP3 server. But I have not found an antivirus, anti spam software that runs in an automatic mode to a POP3 server. The other option was to download all the crap and delete it locally. The SVEN hit started at 4mb per hour, dwindled down to ONLY 1mb per hour a month later.
I'm back on the air now but I have the bogus address for NG stuff. Sigh.
twaldr> Have you tried going to your webmail site and using SPAM/VIRUS blocking
My '81 FSM makes it look as though the CJs that year made the stabalizer an option. Mine is certainly NOT installed in the same manner as the manual suggests it should be, therefore my guess is that one of the POs installed it.
I always was told that there are spambots that search Usenet to harvest email address that reside in the headers. I am convinced that my address was harvested, probably only once, and then was sold on the open market. In any case, I was forced to put a fake address in my newsgroup headers in the effort to hope that the spambots would be rendered harmless to me.
It worked, except that my address has already been sold at least once, and probably thousands of times. I get more spam from Korea ...
Mike, please consider a more optimistic outlook on things, my friend. ;-)
Life's too short to not be.
Terry.
No need for the arguing.
Here's the scoop so far:
1) Caster set at 6 degrees positive, which is Ok, 2) My right front lost two wheel weights (6ozs), not Ok, 3) My toe-in (which I set myself) was at 3/16"; he adjusted to 1/16", 4) Front tires are worn which I plan to rotate to the back, 5) Mechanic fella thought the steering stabilizer was too soft and might be shot. He suggested replacing it (he's also the 2nd mechanic that suggested ditching the track bar).I haven't tested it out yet on that same stretch of bumpy road, but might tonight. Or I might wait until I get the new stabilizer on.
If it is gone, the DW was probably caused by a combination of these items.
Thanks again for all the helpful comments and suggestions.
Terry
92YJA while back there was a guy from the east coast, helicopter pilot, etc that had a built TJ (sorry I can't pull up his name) and we got into the discussion of DW on the TJ. He finally convinced me that big tires need LESS caster than stock tires (say about 5 degrees) rather than the 6 to 7 degrees on the various shop specs. And that the toe in on big tires needs to be as close to zero as you can get and still be toe in.
The OP stated that he has the 1" lift Confer shackles (that are
2" longer than stock) Sin (2"/45") is 2.56 degrees. So the OP is shorting himself 2.5 degrees on the caster (unless he has added the appropriate shims of course) Every inch lowering in the front shaves another .6 degree off the caster. So if he hits the brakes and gets 3" of front dive, he shaves another 2 degrees off the caster. If he has any permamanet spring wrap, he will shave off some more. (35" tires and a D60 probably means he pushes it a little!)The OP stated that he has high mileage on his 35" tires. Most of us have not solved the problem of perfect wear on big tires so I'll assume that they are not worn evenly. He did not state if he had balanced them lately but even then, did he shuck a wheel weight?
The OP has the reversed tie rod , this changes things from what most of us run.
Th OP told Dynatrac about his vehicle, did he indicate he was going to use the Confer shackles? And does Dynatrac set up the axle for a specified caster angle??? Ie do they do factory stock or what works??
When we tackle a harmonic vibration problem (and this is a special case of the general theory) we have 4 basic methods to deal with things:
1) change the freqeuency of the system 2) "Stiffen" the system to move the harmonic up higher. 3) Dampen the system 4) Reduce the input energy at the vibration frequency to keep if from going off.In a Jeep, #1 is tough, it has to move through a range of frequencies (speeds)
#2 involves tightening up the slop in the system (tie rod ends, ball joints, heavier tie rod, etc) Plus you need enough toe in to keep the system preloaded one direction.
#3 is the infamous steering stabilzer.
#4 is mostly from the tires. They need to be dynamicly balanced at the frequency in question (about 60 mph) AND they need to be round and straight. Keep in mind that 35" tires run almost 100 pounds a piece, I have seen them worn down with up to 1/4" cups and waves in them. Lots of side energy available here.
Net: I'll sit here and speculate that the actual caster is way less than the OP thinks it is, that the tires are worn and out of balance (not a lot but enough!), that he hit the brakes and a bump with a bit of a turn, the whole works started to shake, and the steering stabilzer was not up to the job of getting control back. Take your choice of fixes, I personally prefer naturally stable systems to ones that are subject to failure from the fatigue of a single component.
Cheers.
CRWLR wrote:
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