Adjust YJ door striker

OK - It seems that the drivers door on my son's '89 YJ requires a hefty pull to slam it shut. So instead of adjusting it (or asking me to) he has been merely pulling a little harder every day to shut it. The pull strap on the door is now broken & the door panel is beginning to pull away. I figure that he must be hard of hearing, so I asked him in a rather loud voice (so he could hear) why this was not fixed or brought to my attention. I was going to adjust the striker but couldn't find a way of making an adjustment. I checked the FSM & it said to use a brass drift & a large hammer.............(the key to precision? - a BFH?). Can this be true?

Reply to
Carlo
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Pair of channel locks, unscrew the striker and the round plate is mates up with and put a washer in there (if you need to go that direction) or take one off (if there's already one). And yeah you may need the fine alignment tool AKA BFH... the doors may be sagging a little on the hinges. Should be visible from the gap between the body the lower door. If so; a hunk of pressure treated wood and the fine alignment tool against the hinge loops in the relevant direction should help. If it's really bad you may want to loosen the hinges but getting to the winshield/upper door hinge nuts is a whole 'nother post.

Reply to
Simon Juncal

LOL! Yup, it's a Jeep. Seriously the striker itself turns to loosen it with a torx bit in the center of it and usually some vise grips on the outside to help the torx bit. Once loose, they do slide around some. You just want them 'just' cracked loose which is wear the hammer and punch comes in. Too loose and they won't say put to tighten back up.

Check the bottom hinge first. They have a tendency to open up and this allows the door to drop down. I have used large vise grips along with some hammer taps to close the gap back up in the hinge. This usually holds for a year or so but once the hinge has bent, the temper is gone and it will open back up again. I have seen a few that were tack welded closed once bent back in shape.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Carlo wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Thanks I'll give that a try today. I don't think it's an up & down thing - striker appears to line up with the latch. I think it's an in & out thing......but it sounds to me as if the procedure should be about the same............I'll be back.

Reply to
Carlo

Ouch....

In and out isn't usually a good thing....

When I see that I check to see if the rear/side fender has broken away from the floor pan or inside wheel well in the back behind the roll bar.

Top and front of wheel well in the corner seam might need some attention....

Mike

Carlo wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Precision comes from a properly calibrated BFH. If the BFH is not calibrated well, it can do some serious damage.

Reply to
CRWLR

Reply to
twaldron

You have to be careful with the liquid cooling. Too much of the liquid takes away from the accuracy of the BFH, and if the BFH is not calibrated well, then the combination of too much liquid, poor accuracy and bad calibration makes for serious adjustment errors.

Reply to
CRWLR

Reply to
twaldron

The real trouble comes from the liquid cooled operators. The chilled Coors and MGDs can really get a poorly calibrated BFH to swing too fast, and if the accuracy is diminished then the next swing can be even faster.

Reply to
CRWLR

Reply to
twaldron

I have read that when one "learns" a motor coordination that it can only be duplicated with the same skill under the same state of consciousness that it was learned. I believe that this is the reason that I have to have a certain number of beers before I am able to shoot pool & then I must replenish @ a very specific rate to maintain this level of "altered state of consciousness" to continue to play........too much & I get sloppy........too little & I lose precision.

Reply to
Carlo

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

OK.......haven't ignored the group - just haven't had time to look yet. bought our house in Sept & already doing a refi, son is transferring from Cal State LA to Chico State so most of the time we spend together is doing paper work (for school, our house, his new apt, etc), buying books, food - yadda, yadda, yadda.

so specifically where & how do I look for the separation? I'm guessing that I look around the wheel well (from the outside) - or are we talking about from the inside on the floor boards in front of & behind of the side of the back seat?

Reply to
Carlo

The ones I have seen broken away were on the inside just behind the roll bar on the vertical front of the wheel well under the carpet. When really bad, they tear all along the inside top of the wheel well too

There also was evidence of the tear on the outside up under the front of the rear wheel well. Hard to see with the tire in the way though.

If they get bad enough, it ends up with someone having to lift up on the tail light so the door closes easy. (been there, done that, went 'glass)

If someone can lift up on that tail light and the door closes easy, you/he has a lot of work ahead of him.

Mike

Carlo wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

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