Any way to add Sentry Key Engine Immobilizer Theft-Deterrent after the fact?

I had the minor problem of a salesman who didn't know squat, never read the owner's manual, and ultimately steered me away from getting it because, as he said "extra keys will cost you hundreds of dollars." Right. Too late crying over spilt milk now, but I want it added in. Is there any way to buy it direct and either install it myself or have a dealership do it. My stealership has lied too often, threatened not to honor the warranty (that wasn't pretty), and has consistently provided half-assed warranty repairs which break something else - so I'd rather do it myself, and give someone else my business if it's possible to buy it.

Reply to
Andrew
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Who & where is this dealership? A warning to others perhaps?

. . . . . . . . . . . Remove the "four you" in my email to reply.

Reply to
CR

Even if you could buy a system and install it yourself, wouldn't you then need a key for the ignition and a different one for your doors (assuming you have full doors), console, glovebox and tailgate? I don't see how they could provide a new factory sentry-key system that used the same key pattern as your existing vehicle locks. Not a big deal, but that would bug me.

If this is possible (adding sentry system compatible with existing vehicle locks), I'm also interested, since I will soon take delivery a new Rubi, and that's one of three factory options it doesn't have (other two are lockable gas cap and 4-speed auto - I didn't want the auto).

PLM

Reply to
Patrick Mills

My understanding is that it can be added but the engine computer has to be reprogrammed or replaced? to use the system. Somehow the engine computer 'talks' to the key and the codes must match or the computer shuts down the engine in something like two minutes. Some one else might know more on this.

I can relate to having problems with the local dealer but I am not sure this is a DIY type project. JELo

Reply to
JELo

My take on this, after studying the schematics and operation of the system, is that it must be dealer-installed, if that is even an option. I don't know if it a factory-only option. There is a pigtail that the module will plug into, then the PCM will need to be reprogrammed with software to make it recognize the SKIM module and react accordingly. There isn't an easy way to bypass this, such as unplugging the SKIM and jumping wires, as it relies on a serial data bus for communication, and enables ignition with a password between modules. Very similar to what GM has been using for years.

Jerry

Reply to
Jerry Newton

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

Andrew did pass the time by typing:

He was correct.

Your better off without it. Get yourself a better alarm system in the aftermarket.

Depending on budget you can get ones that page you, remote engine start, remote window, etc. The problem is if you had the immobilizer key that would have to be bypassed.

I use Clifford and apart from one minor relay repair it's worked flawlessly since 1993.

Nothing beats being able to remote start the Jeep when it's blowing sleet outside then walk out to an already defrosted and toasty ride while everyone else is cursing and scraping ice. :) It also works in 100 degree heat if you leave the AC on. Rolling up the windows because of a rainstorm is also very cool.

Reply to
DougW

I have to completly disagree with you.. Your better off with it. Car alarms are not really that difficult to defeat, even those that claim they'll prevent the vehicle from being started.. All new DC products where I am have the sentry key system installed, and next year all new vehicles are required by law here to have a similar system. Car alarms just don't work, when is the last time you even bothered to look to see which vehicle it was when you herd an alarm going off, almost everyone ignores them now-adays.. Some cities and towns in my general area are even toying with the idea of implimenting bylaws to ban any car alarm with an audible sound. Right now locally the fine is $750 if your alarm goes off more then twice in a 24hr period, but they are toying with the idea of an outright ban, and I'm all for it. I've recovered a few hundred stolen vehicles in my career, most had no security device at all, but you'd be surprised how many had car alarms.. So far I've only ever recovered one vehicle that had an] transponder system embeded in the key.. Whoever took it, used a flat deck truck and just scouped it up, stripped it, then abonded it..

Reply to
me

me did pass the time by typing:

That depends entirly on how the alarm was installed. For the el-cheapo wallmart/circuit city specials, yes. For custom installs done properly, no.

For my clifford you would have to find the brain box (it's not above the drivers feet) It is behind the dash in such a way you have to remove the dash to get to it. There are ignition wires under the dash, but they are just decoys.

Besides, most vehicle thefts (pro jobs) are via flatbed tow trucks. Nothing, not even a keyfobmahicky is going to prevent a crack fueled theft attempt or a carjacking. The only hope there is a anti-carjack or lojack system. "Hello on-star, my vehicles been stolen, would you please shut it down?".. :)

I'm in favor of anything that lowers insurance rates. :)

Yes, car alarms are annoying. Mine just sounds the siren for 1 min the shuts up. Although the 115dB interior screamer goes on for as long as any door is still open. (or 30 min). It's hard to hear outside the Jeep, but inside it's downright painfull.

Yep. Most "pro" jobs are done with flatbed tow trucks. Few people question a tow truck hooking up to a vehicle. The thief just crawls under, cuts the hot lead and proceeds to scoop up the vehicle. That's also why a good car alarm has a independant backup battery or lead ran high enough it can't be cut.

A lot of those flatbed removals can be slowed by simply locking the wheels full left or right. They want easy-on and that requires a dolly.

You should see the anti-theft system I saw down in Mexico. 1/4" plate steel and a big ass padlock fixing the transmission in park. Of course the blue ribon goes to the vehicle with the big ass dog in it.

It's also amazingly hard to hotwire a car that is missing the primary spark wire. :)

Reply to
DougW

So am I.. Kinda glad the government here is stepping in and legislating insurance rates after the past few years of increases and gouging by the insurance industry..

Reply to
me

Reply to
tom davin

The night I got my Jeep home I read over the owner's manual and found out I had either been lied to, or the sales guy had been too lazy to check himself. I could care less which one. If I had known the truth I could have bought up to 8 blank keys and coded them myself. I'd have done it in a heartbeat.

I'm not one to tempt fate: I want the key system, a car alarm with both a beam under the driver dash and a trigger when it tilts (flatbed theives) with every speaker on the rig set to blast like hell. If they get away with it I'll be awake and calling Lojack or whichever vehicle recovery system I put in it.

Besides, I'd have no problem holding them till the cops arrive. It's amazing the powers of persuasion an armed civilian has on gutless thieves. Especially when you're trying to steal their Jeep.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Reply to
Andrew

Andrew did pass the time by typing:

You forgot tazer wires in the drivers seat. ;)

(Yes, they do make it)

Reply to
DougW

Reply to
mic canic

Reply to
mic canic

What I did was to dealer add Electronic Vehicle Security (EVS) to the car after I purchased it. This has the engine immobilizer as well as the balance of the alarm systems (doors, impact, et al). Total cost about $300. Look into it at your DC dealer, its tailored for the Jeep, Wrangler included.

Reply to
Walt & Lynda Johnson

Reply to
L.W.(ßill)

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