Backups lights not working on Laredo'91

I admittedly know "0" about which wires go where, but I would warn you that applying current where there is none can be a VERY bad thing. I would get a wiring schematic and backtrace until I found the problem and repair it correctly.

Good Luck, Bruce

It probably doesn't matter, but what 'kind' of Laredo do you have. I have a CJ7 Laredo and love it.

Meanwhile is sounds like you have a bad connection in the switch. Some of those switches are extremely expensive. Here is a link on rebuilding one kind of them:

It's a Cherokee Laredo 2.5L. I am working a lot on this vehicle I've been using now for a couple of months. I love this vehicle.

Thanks for the link. I believe the switch is okay as I've already done the continuity test the article mentions . I've checked the "reverse" pins (A-E) on the switch and I have no resistance when reverse is engaged (circuit is closed) and no continuity when reverse is not engaged (circuit is open) so I assume the switch is doing its job. The Haynes manual mentions the wire before the switch is hot at all time. By "hot", my initial question was to know if I can connect it directly to the battery. So far I haven't found 12V on this wire so I am tempted to bypass this wire but I prefer to be sure before doing that, I won't kill the safety switch. As pin "A" is also responsible for

Lionel

Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse as the back up lights.

Mike

Li>> It probably doesn't matter, but what 'kind' of Laredo do you have. I

them:

The rear defroster light turns on when I press defroster therefore I assume defroster is okay. I checked the fuse box under the hood and the one on the driver side. All fuses are okay so maybe the wiring harness is cut at some point. I have 0.4 ohm of resistance (could probably have more with cleaner conductive parts) between pins A-E on the neutral safety switch plug when reverse is engaged and no continuity in all other modes.

With engine on and off, I never read any volts where I guess I should read 12V (before the switch to pin A) so I am thinking of bypassing this apparently cut wire by adding one with a 15A fuse hooked directly to the + of the battery. I based my plan from the wiring diagrams in the Chilton (it even has a correct color code for my jeep the Haynes does not have). Applying directly 12V on pin E turns on my backup light so the after-switch part of the circuit is good. Any comments/ tips on my plan ?

I'll post some follow-ups on that.

Another question: my parking brakes are fine but the button to release the lever has a very small course, maybe 4mm. I don't think this is normal. Is there any way I can unstuck this button assuming this its course is not the regular one ?

Thanks

Lionel

I can't see anything wrong with your power supply idea. I think you should follow the cable back to see if it maybe got melted by the exhaust or pinched by a mount or something.

I think the button on the brake screws on with a set nut, not sure if it can easily be adjusted or not.

Mike

Li>> Does your rear window defroster work? I 'think' it is on the same fuse

As promised, here is a follow-up. I've done what I explained before and the backup-lights are now operational again. A wire was probably dead before the neutral safety switch. I hooked directly an extra wire to the battery and the wire has itself a 15A fuse.

Lionel

Thanks for the follow up!

Mike

Lionel