Bad Engine?

The description of engine number three reminds me of what happened with a run of Chrysler Corporation engines in 1978. Good compression, poor oil mileage, somebody forgot to stagger the ring gaps.

Earle

Bill,

I followed their break-in procedure which, although not identical to the ones on the web page you listed (e.g. accelerate to 55 MPH rather than 50 MPH, repeat 10 times rather than several times, etc...), are probably close enough. Besides, their engine, their break-in procedure.

And even if I didn't, I don't understand how this could cause damage to the cylinder walls.

Thanks.

This doesn't help, but three engines gone bad? Some folks might take that as a sign to get a different vehicle....

If the rings are not staggered you can pump a lot of oil out but you are also producing a smoke screen behind you. I think I would be on the phone to find out why you received three bad engines. Anything mass produced will occasionally produce a defective product. Three in a row implies something different. What reasoning (excuse) are they offering?

As I remember from 1978, the Chrysler Corp. engines with this problem were not producing smoke screens. Up to some limit, oil will burn clean. The warranty fix to the problem, by the way, was to take out the pistons, stagger the rings, and put them back. No new rings, no honing of cylinder walls. I had a heck of a time talking the parts counter out of new head gaskets, because it wasn't listed on the warranty repair bulletin as a necessary part! I saw another case where a private mechanic put all the rings in a Volvo B18 engine upside down. It pumped a lot of oil, but did not noticeably smoke.

He didn't get three bad engines. The second was supposedly OK, but he put in a bad claim. I am skeptical of the "not broken in" theory, since he claims that the third engine pumped oil since new. I would look for something installed incorrectly, but since PowerPro Performance now has the engine how to prove this? Mike, what make and model engine is it?

Earle

Earle,

It's the AMC 258 (4.2 L) 6 cylinder. They still haven't gotten back to me yet, with the guy I'm working with saying he needs to confirm or check something (he wasn't real clear). I'm supposed to hear from him on Monday. BTW, the web site for this company is

Keep your fingers crossed. Maybe they will find something wrong with your third engine.

Earle

Are you spinning the oil pump with a drill? This seems to be a good thing to do... I've only put in a V8 longblock Chevy before, but this was recommended, so I took copper pipe and flattened one end... chucked it up and spun the oil pump with the distributor out. This was enough to get the pump primed.... is there no procedure like that required? First startup is a critical time! __ Steve .

I just had my 258 changed last month and yes they had to use drill for oil pump.

Are you spinning the oil pump with a drill? This seems to be a good thing to do... I've only put in a V8 longblock Chevy before, but this was recommended, so I took copper pipe and flattened one end... chucked it up and spun the oil pump with the distributor out. This was enough to get the pump primed.... is there no procedure like that required? First startup is a critical time! __ Steve .

Stephen Cowell ( snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net) wrote on Friday 24 June 2005 11:50 pm:

Steve,

Yes, I use a drill to turn the oil pump, usually twice - once when the engine is out and I'm testing for leaks, and the second just before I drop the distributor in less than an hour before initial start-up. I distinctly remember last time because I forgot that I had taken the plug out of the oil pressure sending unit hole and it sprayed oil all over the garage wall. At least I knew I'd get good pressure :).

Thanks.