CJ-7 Key wont turn all the way

Stupid question I know, but did you try shooting some ZEP-45 or even some WD-40 into it in case it's gunked up?

Thanks

Might give this a shot. It's not the best writeup but should get you there.

Doug, Thanks. Looks like this job is going to be a tough one as I don't have any of the pullers in the article.

Kate, I'm pretty sure this goes beyond a squirt of WD-40, but I'll give it a try.

Thanks.

The switch is down at the bottom of the column, maybe it came loose or the rod popped there?

Mike

Mike, is the rod accessible at the bottom of the column?

Kate, I squirted some PB blaster in the cylinder. They key turns much easier, but no cigar. It still wont hit the next detent.

Just to clarify, it will hit the accessory detent (counter clockwise) but something prevents it from hitting the first detent clockwise. It just jams up and wont turn any more.

I was thinking; instead of tearing the column apart, why don't I throw in a couple of Solenoid switches. One switch to arm the ignition and another starter switch.

Does anyone know which terminal does what on the starter solenoid (on the passenger fenderwell)?

Thanks

Hey dumbo,

All you have to do is press hard on the foot brake and do the same thing.

And it's possible the wheels are already turned to one side.

Do back to your antique that you still remember something about.

In fact, start your own illiterate group for only. You won't get much traffic, but at least you'll know a little something about the topic.

You just have no relevance here anymore -- and that is the polite version.

The Mechanic

Yes, the ignition switch and rod are accessible down at the bottom. The ignition switch down there is also adjustable so it may just have come loose.

Unfortunately your steering is now locked so you can't just jump start it, well you can, but you are only going to go one way, the way the wheels point now...

Bill did have a point, your front wheels aren't jammed up against a curb are they? That 'can' lock the keyswitch up... It has happened to me more than once....

Mike

Jo Baggs wrote:

Mike, the steering is not locked !!! The key will turn enough to unlock the wheel. However, it stops turning just before the clockwise accessory position. In other words, the steering wheel unlocks, but I cant turn on my radio. So even if I jump start it, I doubt the engine will turn over as there is no power to the ignition system. Thoughts.

Glenn, thanks. I'll give it a try

If it's a tilt column, there's a little pot metal rack and slide assembly inside the column at the tilt joint that sometimes breaks. Also, on my neighbor's truck I just replaced a lock cylinder in the steering column that was acting just like yours. The lock cyl. is the easiest fix, you only have to have a couple of special tools to get to it. The rack is a bit more complicated, as you have to pull the pivot pins for the tilt.

That's about all you can do at this point, you need to start taking things apart to see which end is broke, the bottom or top.

Mike

I melt an ignition switch on my Cherokee about every 18 months. Same symptoms you describe. Its gotten pretty easy to repair. Along the top of the column is a metal wand that actually moves the switch positions, opening and closing the contacts in the switch itself, which is at the bottom of the column. On the left side of the column is a similar wand, that activitates the high beams.

Step one, disconnect the battery ground.

I take pieces of duct tape, and strap the 2 metal wands down to the column, so they don't fall out. This allows me to not have to disassemble or pull the steering wheel. I unplug the switch connectors at the bottom of the column, and then remove the 2 bolts that hold the switch in place. One of these is actually threaded at both ends, with a nut in the middle, as the assemble is in 2 layers.

I then remove the old switch. I make sure the slider on the new switch is in the same position as the old one, and then install it. Once I've tightened everything down, I plug in the connectors, and then remove the tape holding the metal wands. Reconnect the battery, and test.

Its pretty easy, and this approach allows me to not remove the wheel, or even drop the column, but the room to operate is a little tight.

No experience with the CJ, but hopefully the setup is somewhat similar. Hope this helps.

S.

I melt an ignition switch on my Cherokee about every 18 months. Same symptoms you describe. Its gotten pretty easy to repair. Along the top of the column is a metal wand that actually moves the switch positions, opening and closing the contacts in the switch itself, which is at the bottom of the column. On the left side of the column is a similar wand, that activitates the high beams.

Step one, disconnect the battery ground.

I take pieces of duct tape, and strap the 2 metal wands down to the column, so they don't fall out. This allows me to not have to disassemble or pull the steering wheel. I unplug the switch connectors at the bottom of the column, and then remove the 2 bolts that hold the switch in place. One of these is actually threaded at both ends, with a nut in the middle, as the assemble is in 2 layers.

I then remove the old switch. I make sure the slider on the new switch is in the same position as the old one, and then install it. Once I've tightened everything down, I plug in the connectors, and then remove the tape holding the metal wands. Reconnect the battery, and test.

Its pretty easy, and this approach allows me to not remove the wheel, or even drop the column, but the room to operate is a little tight.

No experience with the CJ, but hopefully the setup is somewhat similar. Hope this helps.

S.

Thanks Fraserwag. I'll give it a try. Work is a little busy so this project will, have to wait a few days.

FYI. There is no left side hi-beam rod on a CJ-7. The hi-beams operate off a floor switch.

"Throntum Mechanic" wrote

Hey dumbo,

All you have to do is press hard on the foot brake and do the same thing.

sheesh!

K.

I'd be willing to bet a nickle that the lock cylinder has gone fubar. Prolly one ot the little spring loaded rods inside has blown through the cast housing. I would pull the lock cylinder and have a look at it.

K.

Kate, I squirted some PB blaster in the cylinder. They key turns much easier, but no cigar. It still wont hit the next detent.

Just to clarify, it will hit the accessory detent (counter clockwise) but something prevents it from hitting the first detent clockwise. It just jams up and wont turn any more.

I was thinking; instead of tearing the column apart, why don't I throw in a couple of Solenoid switches. One switch to arm the ignition and another starter switch.

Does anyone know which terminal does what on the starter solenoid (on the passenger fenderwell)?

Thanks

"Jo Baggs" wrote

FYI. There is no left side hi-beam rod on a CJ-7. The hi-beams operate off a floor switch.

K.