Towing a CJ-7 (Need proper procedures for it)

I have the owners manual for my 86 and it says to put it in gear with the t-case in neutral to tow. It then says to stop every hundred miles or so and run the engine while still in gear for a couple minutes to lube up the t-case.

Or pull the rear driveshaft.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Brandy Wood wrote:

Transfer case in neutral, transmission in 3rd gear. You can lock one of the front hubs if you want, but it isn't really necessary.

Before you head out, start the engine, run it at about 1200 or so rpm for a minute + to sling oil throughout the transfer case. Stop every 200 miles or so and repeat procedure.

You do not need to remove driveshafts, just be sure that you sling the oil in the transfer case on a regular basis.

Als, be sure your steering column is NOT locked while you tow.

Robert Bills KG6LMV Orange County CA

'83 CJ-7 '46 Bantam BT3C '87 Ford F250 4x4 Diesel

Does the front output shaft sling the oil through the T-case on a Dana 300, or is it the input shaft? I seem to recall it was the front output shaft, so when flat-towing you could lock in the front hubs to keep it lubed, put the Tcase in Neutral, tranny in gear, and steering column unlocked.

I don't believe that is right at all for the 300.

When the hubs are open, the front driveshaft does not move. Therefore I think the oil gets slung from the front input shaft like my owners manual says.

The owners manual for the 85 and 86 states you have to run the engine in gear with the t-case in neutral every hundred miles or so to lube up the t-case.

If locking the front hubs would keep it lubed up, you would think the manual would say so to avoid having to stop and run the engine. etc...

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Matt Macchiarolo wrote:

OK, I wasn't sure if it was the input shaft or front output shaft for the

300. If it was the output shaft, you could lock the hubs to provide lubrication...perhaps some other Tcase does that.

Why even put the wear and tear on the components in the first place. It's 8 small bolts/nuts and thats it....no stopping every X hundred of miles. My vote is just remove the driveshaft or remove the rear end and wire it up (only 4 little bolts then)

I used and BIG gatorade bottle.

The proper way to tow a CJ with the D300 tcase is to put the tcase in N and put the trans in either 1 or R, or P if an automatic. They say to leave the front hubs unlocked and to stop every 200 miles and run the motor (with the levers in the same position as for towing, except the auto should be taken out of P) to stir the oil in the tcase and splash it onto the output shaft gears and bearings.

I leave my front hubs locked when I tow. The idea is that the front driveline will turn and spin the gears in the tcase while you are driving, and this will keep the output gears and bearings well lubricated.

Leaving the hubs locked will most certainly cause the tcase oil to be circulated throughout the tcase.

There is only 4 nuts and bolts. Only one end of the rear drive shaft need be disconnected, the other end (the tcase end) can remain connected and the front does not need to be removed at all.

I use some black electric tape to tape the bearing caps to the ujoint so nothing gets lost. Then I wire the driveline up to the frame.