disassembling hatch lock cylinder on an XJ?

I've got an ancient '84 XJ that broke a key off in the rear hatch lock cylinder. How do I disassemble the lock assembly to extract it? I've got the cylnder assembly out of the hatch (which was jammed for other reasons). I just can't seem to figure out how to get the cylinder to come apart. Suggestions?

Reply to
wkearney99
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Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Well, given I posted a while ago about the hatch being jammed shut it wouldn't have helped to go to a locksmith. At least not without paying an arm and a leg to get them to pull the panel off, remove the lock assembly and THEN pick it. It seems the door was jammed on some stray bits of backerboard crumbs as well as being nearly completely dry of any sort of lubricant. Both now solved. It's possible to bend but just barely avoid breaking the rear panel to get to the striker assembly. Anyway...

I got the assembly out and now need to remove the tumbler cylinder. It's an XJ, not a Grand Cherokee and their hatch lock assemblies are nowhere near the same. So thanks for the link but it's not applicable. The XJ is a plunger-type, not just a usual turn-to-open style.

I'm figuring there some sort of 'release' trick to getting the cylinder to drop out of the assembly. Anyone know what it is?

Reply to
wkearney99

wkearney99 did pass the time by typing:

Depends on the core type but for hatch locks they are usually assembled though the cylinder and installed as an assembly. Look for a sliding bit of metal on the top of the pin springs but be forewarned... them little buggers can go all over the place and bend...

Not seeing exactly what your working with I'll go with suggestions.

Look for a removal position. i.e. turn the key past where the normal cam would stop it and then see if there is another passage for removal.

Look for a tiny pin or screw locking the core in. Pins can be pushed out with a teeny drillbit. Ignitions switches are usually held in this way.

Your basic file cabinet lock just uses a slider at the back you can remove with a long pointed bit of metal. Others use one more bump on the end of a universal key that pulls back the last pin holding the core in. There might be a slot at the back that takes a pick/flat blade to draw down a springloaded pin that holds it in.

I'm not aware of many automotive locks that use master keys. Those are too easy for criminals to get keys for. Today they just cut another one using your key numbers or VIN from the dealership.

Remember that most of those cores are made in massive bulk and then randomized among vehicles. Might ask a local locksmith if they can remove the core for you. The charge shouldn't be much and they will tell you right up front if it's a one-shot type unit.

Reply to
DougW

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

L.W. ("ßill") Hughes III did pass the time by typing:

Yep. Those are them.

Just a note for wkearney99, don't use liquid oils on locks. Only use powedered graphite if the lock needs it. Liquid oils, even silicone sprays, collect dirt and cause locks to "freeze" in the winter.

Reply to
DougW

Nope, that's not the lock assembly either. I've taken my share of them apart before but mostly door or ignition types. That one turns the bell crank. This one is the typical XJ hatch lock, it's the push-button trunk style. It doesn't appear to have an obvious way to remove the cylinder. No circlip, drift pin or the usual tricks seen on most lock assemblies. I'll try and post a picture of it tomorrow.

As for oil, this wasn't the lock cylinder that lacked lube. It was the striker/catch assembly. Dry as a bone but I suppose that's to be expected. I'm well aware of not using oils in lock cylinders. If/when I get the actual cylinder out of the assembly I'm prepared for the usual leaping spring risks. I only want to extract the broken tip of the old key from the cylinder. It's too far in there to extract. Made even harder due to the the spring-loaded cover inside the keyhole. Yes, I could pay a locksmith to do this but that'd probably end up being more than this old wreck is worth.

Reply to
wkearney99

wkearney99 did pass the time by typing:

Those types of removals are tough. The only times I have done one there was a hole at the back of the lock that let me push the old key out using some wire or a toothpick. I still had to butt it up to the old key or use a wire to hold the pins out of the way.

You could bend up a paperclip to hold the pins out of the way and then try slapping the edge of the lock against a hard surface. There might be enough mass to move the remaining key bit out.

Reply to
DougW

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