Easiest cheapest way to change to 4.11:1

You have the 3.07, apparently. I think the cutoff is 3.55 and (numerically) lower requires one type of carrier, 3.73 and higher requires another.

You could, you also would need the air pump and electrics for the lockers if you wanted to use them. It should bolt right up otherwise but probably not your least expensive choice.

Only if you have the Dana 35 rear, which you probably do if you don't have the 3.73 gears. The Dana 44 carrier won't fit in a Dana 35.

Probably.

They should. This would be the "easiest" route, assuming the junkyard axles are in good shape, and may even be cheaper than regearing depending on what you pay for the axle assemblies.

Depends on your definition of "non-crazy expensive." Most of the expense of re-gearing is in labor, it's a very exacting and labor-intensive job, best left to professionals or at the very least someone with lots of experience in changing out diffs. Even more so for a 4x4 because you have to get both axles re-geared unless you plan to not use 4wd.

If you have ABS, you'll need to take that into consideration as well.

Sounds like you married the right woman...

God Bless America, Bill O|||||||Omailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

Matt,

Yes, sorry I don't know what I was thinking. It is 3.07 and DANA 30 / 35 Front / Rear.

Hmm, after the last time I posted here I talked to mechanic and he told me that my best bet would be to track down the carrier myself because that was the most expensive part of the whole thing. He said it would probably run $400.00 just for the part (per axle) if he got it and he thought I could probably find one online for a fraction of that. His labor was only going to be about $200.00 (per axle). I ask around and talked to a lot of people before I went to this guy , he came highly recommended. One other guy that was also highly recommended for axle work wanted $800.00 an axle. I didn't bother asking if that included parts.

Yes, I had all the "how-to's" downloaded and printed out. I have the rings and pinions. I was all set to get started doing it myself when everyone here informed me I was going to need a carrier. At that point I realized I was in over my head... I almost had my axles all pulled apart in the driveway and was really just asking a last minute question of some kind here. I can't imagine how long or far I would messed with it before realizing the my ring was not going to bolt to the carrier.... or maybe I would have managed to get it on there ! Then end up tearing the hell out of it all 2 feet out of the driveway.

I'm going to check the salvage yards and see what I can come up with. I've already decided that if it requires opening up the dif then I'm having someone with experience do it.

She made it clear she married me for the Jeep. :) Your right though. I'm a pretty lucky guy.

Matt, thanks for the info !

Farrell Christeson

Thanks Bill that is very useful.

And digging around there brings up :

" Make sure you get at least a 3.73 since that is the ratio where both the front Dana 30 and rear Dana 35 have the larger gear cases that can accept ratios like the 4.11 and lower (higher, numerically) "

Ok.. I don't just need the carrier I need the entire gear case ? The only thing I "don't" have to replace is the axles and tubes ? (and I know I "should" replace my frail D35's with the more manly D44).

Confused again. The 4.11 and carrier, even if I have them, will not fit in my 3.07 gear case ?

Farrell Christeson

God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

Yup, you need the whole shebang, not a cheap thing to do.

I am lucky and can get by with my 3.31's and 33's, but if I use 5th, it drinks gas. I say with a '4 speed' and forget about OD or 5th and get

23 MPG highway.

Been doing this for 10 years or so in my C7. I don't crawl rocks on the trails I run so pretty much never even need first low.

If I win the lotto I might think on new gears, but.....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > Thanks Bill that is very useful.

> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O>> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com >

Hi Farrell, Correct, and correct, the carrier change is at 3.73 on your POS:

and the Dana 44 that was stock on theoriginal (REAL) Jeep. Your front Dana 30 is at 3.54: God Bless America, Bill O|||||||Omailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

Your 3.31 actually makes your first four gears a close ratio transmission. like I tried to do with my Corvette Muncie M-22 and 5.38s God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

Dang.

Called around and so far just one salvage yard has a 4 banger with the 4.11, they want $975.00 for the thing. Haven't found Ruby at any of them but I'm guessing they will be very very $ proud $ of it if I do find one.

My real reason isn't really about gas, the wife drives it 6 blocks to work and back because it costs to much in gas for me to drive it 50 - 60 miles a day. The problem is about power. Since I put the 33's on it a couple of years ago it is really weak in 2 high (does just great off road in 4 low but

4 high is worse than worthless ). On the highway you can't use 5th gear at all, 5th has 0 power it won't even coast unless your going down hill, 4th gear is now 5th gear in that you can not accelerate in 4th gear at all and must drop to 3rd gear if your going up even the slightest uphill grade. Third gear is the driving gear now, it' does have good power in 3rd but it runs at about 3+ grand at 65mph in 3rd gear. Taking off from a stop it has to be babied with lots of clutch and lots of gas or the jeep shakes and the valves float. I really don't like her driving it even just that short distance the way it is, it needs more power for pulling out in traffic.

I wonder if it would make any difference to just go up ( numerically) to whatever the max is on the 3.07 . I would hate to spend the money, even though I would just do the rear at first, only to find out it really didn't help at all.

Maybe I can convince her to let me put some 30" tires on it. If I remember right, that is what it had from the factory and the power was great until I put the 33"s on it.

Farrell Christeson

>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O>>> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com >>

Hrm...

That was $975.00 just for the rear axle.

>>> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O>>>> mailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com >>>

Words of wisdom from idiot. He gets by because one, he does not know how to change a differ cover gasket let alone a gear set and two he has very low standards and a really big ego.

In 10 years you have not learned a thing obviously. If your knowledge was half as big as your ego you might know something.

If the OP has a 02 with 4 inch lift and 33's, I would suggest a 4.56 if you have a stick which would be a NV3550 and it would play well together. One thing you would do well to consider in that the rear axle for a Ford explorer built from about 95 to 2002 is a darn near bolt in and it is considerably stronger than your D35. The ford 8.8 has no carrier break so the money you save on not buying a carrier could go for axle and you might get lucky to and find a exploer 8.8 with a 4.1 in it if you stick with that gear and get a much stronger rear axle. I am not a ford fan but the 8.8 is a pretty good rear end for what it is and a lot better than a D35 and arguably better than a D44 too.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

The max with current carrier in front is 3.54, in rear it is a 3.31 so you are stuck with a 3.31 which is not worth effort. If you want to pinch pennies try a ford 8.8 out of a 95 to 02 explorer in a 3.54 as it is darn near a bolt in and a lot stronger and regear front to 3.54. It would be marginal but a lot better than what you have now. If you are consider a axle swap, I would swap to something stronger than a 35 in rear be it a D44 or ford 8.8 and I would not swap in a new 35 for

33's or bigger tires "IF" you are going to swap the whole axle out. BTW as I mentioned in a earlier post the ford 8.8 has no carrier break and has a 1.3 inch bigger diameter ring gear than a 35 and can go as low as a 6.14 (not that you want to)

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

If it had 30" tires on it from the factory it should have 3.73 gears in it. The 30" tire/wheel group came with 3.73 gears, in which case there would be no problems going to 4.10s. I have 4.56's in my '00, came from factory with

3.73's, and I didn;t have to change out the carrier, although I did on the front when I had a True Trac installed.

Have you verified your final-drive ratio?

Matt

Hi Farrell,

I have an auto 05 rubicon running 33's with the stock 4.10 (or 4.11?) gearing, with all the extra junk, winch bumpers, jack, trail rack, etc, etc. My next mod will be to go to 4.56 if I don't ever go to

35's. I don't know how the manual trans equates to my auto, but my jeep is NOT happy at all on any type of incline loaded with gear for the trail. Over drive? whats that. hehe! something to consider anyway.

Take care,

And who are you, you haven't shown me sh*t! Other than a f*cked up head conversion I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy:

God Bless America, Bill O|||||||Omailto: snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

Only someone that does not understand Jeeps and how to inprove them would make such a statement. Actually the 8.8 is a fairly popular swap because it is a LOT stronger than a D35 and basically a bolt in and lug pattern is the same too. A axle has 3 design limitations. The first obvous one is the axle shafts, next is the housing strength and last is the pinion shaft. There are those out there like yourself and Mike that do not even remotely consider the last one and operate on the theory than a taller gear is stronger becuse it has more teeth conatct area but tooth yeild is really a issue but high torque input to achieve desired ground tractive effort with tall gears is a problem and can cause pinion shaft to yeild sometimes before axle if lockers are not in use. A deeper gear reduces input torque strain on pinion shaft and on driveshaft, Tcase, tranny and motor mounts that have to absorb counter torque from high drive shaft loads (many NEVER remotely consider this even though is does exist). Say what you want but usually it shows how little you realy understand the bigger picture here.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Bud, you have proven beyond any reasonable doubt that you are a Liar and a total idiot stalker that gives out deadly and stupid advice.

Like the poor guy you are now trying to sucker into snapping off his intake manifold bolts over on rec.autos.jeep by insisting his I6 has independent intake bolts that need V8 torque on them eh.

As far as my diff cover goes, come on over and we can talk about how a 'professional' like you claim you are screwed it up by not waiting the cure time, while I beat on you with my cane...

Mike