The only picture here bud is how much of a brain dead asshole you are with your usually useless blowhard rants and advice that will Kill people, let alone the just plain 'wrong' advice you normally give out.
Why do you even post to Usenet? Do you get your rocks off on the abuse you get for your total bullshit on 'all' the groups you bother?
Do you think you have even one shred of credibility?
I know you always forget that Google.com saves 'all' your bullshit posts so anyone punching in your name can easily see what a total freaking idiot you are.
Sadly, the metal tag on the rear dif cover clearly has 3 07 stamped on it :( I sold the wheels / tires shortly after I got the jeep, all I really remember is "Grizzly wheel and tire package" and dealer saying something about it being a bigger tire.
I don't know enough about differentials or axles or carriers to really know what my options are but if I understand what I have read so far, the problem with my rear axle is that the case ( 3rd member ? ) is physically to small to hold the larger gears ? If going with 4.11's can be as simple as eliminating the carrier then I'm interested in almost anything other than perm posi in the rear. The wheelbase is so short the ass likes to pass the nose already, with rear posi on wet / slick roads I would have to teach the wife to drive it backwards every time it rained or snowed.
Does anyone know if this is an option on the Dana 30/35 ? Would using a locker of some type to eleimate the carrier allow me to put put
4.11's in my 3rd member ? Is the carrier the problem or are the gears actually to big for the 3rd member ?
I think what I really need to do is keep my eyes open for a wrecked Rubi or TJ with the Dana 44's and just buy the whole rig. I've only found the 3.73 assemblies at the salvage yards so far and they want $900+ for them... crazy.
Farrell Christes> When I changed gears in my CJ I had to go to a new carrier, think it cost
Too bad. My 3.31's are 'just' low enough to keep the power nice at 65 mph uphill when loaded with gear and hold it with 33's in 4th turning
2300 rpm. If I hit the hill any slower in 4th and it's steep, I will need to gear down.
When I had 31's on I had no issues, it did make difference. CJ's and TJ's can fit and some packages come with 31's, maybe worth a try? I would even borrow a set from someone just to see.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
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Third member is something else entirely. It is used in those truck rear axles where you can actually remove all the differential guts, to work on at the work bench for example, while the axle housing remains in the vehicle. You do not have one.
What you are talking about is the piece that the ring gear bolts to, that whirls around at more or less the same speed as the wheels. The 4.11 ring gear is a different diameter from the 3.07 ring gear, so that the piece that it bolts to, that is to say the flange on the carrier, had to be made a different size. This is called the "differential case", although it is a moving part too. There are two different stock part numbers, for the two ranges of possible ring gear value, that fit the axle housing in your vehicle.
You are not going to get any better ass-passing behavior by regearing. This vehicle is just too short to tolerate much erratic behavior on icy roads. Now if you get a heavy duty locker like a Detroit, well that is a replacement carrier but not the best thing for slick roads either.
The axle housing and the "pumpkin" don't need to be changed. The new gears will fit inside. What you need to regear is:
Ring/pinion sets (front and back). A ratio from 4.11 to 4.56 should be ok.
4.11 would be a bit tall, 4.56 a bit low. Both ratios will make a huge difference compared to 3.07.
New bearing sets for pinion and differential carrier (check with your mechanic, he may supply those himself).
New diferential carriers (the "heart" of the differential, on which the ring gear bolts to)
As I understand, you now have a limited slip differential in the rear. This is integrated on the differential carrier. If you don't like the limited slip in the back, you can buy "open" differential carriers (the most common type) which are also cheaper than the limited slip carrier. This way you eliminate the limited slip. If you buy the differential carriers new, check that they are complete, with the spider gears and side gears.
Take the parts to a good mechanic and have him install them.
Any other option that requires axle replacement with different type of axle (D44 or 8.8 or other) will require at least a new rear driveshaft, and modificatioons (relocate or install mounting points for the coil springs, minor modifications for the brakes, ABS etc). Although stronger, since you don't do any hard-core wheeling with the Jeep, they are a waste of money.
" Actually the 8.8 is a fairly popular swap because it is a LOT stronger than a D35 and basically a bolt in and lug pattern is the same too."
It is a popular swap but on an 02 TJ it is hardly "basically a bolt in," since you'd have to remove the leaf spring perches and weld on new coil spring perches and control arm/track bar brackets.
Again such a idiot, 3.31 gears belong in a car not a 4x4 with big tires and statements like his tells you how really clueless he is. (if his gear were as deep as his ego is big he might actuallly have a real
4x4 rather than a tonka toy he drives) If your 4x4 requires a downshift out of even 5th on highway it is geared too tall. None of my
4x4's require a downshift out of OD on any normal interstate grade unless you are in some serious mountains and engine power in down because air is thinner and even then the never below drive unless maybe it is the pass to Eisenhower tunnel on I-70 in Colorado at
11,997 feet. Even my wifes 4 cyl 5 speed stock Cherokee that we bought new never needs a down shift on a hill anywhere around here even with A/C on. Why? Because it has 225/78 tires and 4.10 gears it came with matches its avaible power well to load. I would never even remotely consider bigger tires on it with regearing it. (not that I am going to ever put big tires on it any way) BTW, it turns about 2450 at 60 MPH in 5th and will cruise 70 all day if you want to without busting a gut and now has over 80K on it and run great and uses no oil between changes. RPM do not hurt a engine but lugging it under load sure can. Also only a fool would promote of suggest using less gears on a tranny and loosing availble power in all gear because they are too cheap to do it right. Mike is such a bit fan of have a 5 speed with 4 "usabel" gears that he spends a lot of time convincing other that his poor logic is sound so they can join him.
Ok, googled around some more and I see were I got confused. The "carrier case" refers the carrier holding all the spider geers and not "carrier case = pumpkin". So now I'm back to , just need carrier (and spiders) and / or a locker of some type that eliminates the carrier. But I dont' want posi in the rear end so...
Years ago I worked for a landscape company that pushed snow in the winter. They had almost all dodge trucks and they actually removed the rear driveshaft in all the trucks and ran them in 4 hi / low making them front wheel drive instead of four wheel drive. The reason had to do with tearing diffs up because of a lot of driving on pavement with both axles locked and in all honesty I never had a problem pushing snow in with them. Anyway... is there any reason I couldn't put a detroit and 4.11 in the front axle and drive it without the rear driveshaft until I can find a wrecked Ruby or something and put Dana 44's under it ?
Will it hurt a TJ to drive it without the rear driveshaft ?
In reality the problem was the drivers not taking them out of 4x4 in between plow jobs....
Anyway...
Do you have the stock driveshaft? If so, you will hurt it. The stock driveshaft's slip joint is on the output shaft of the transfer case, and when you remove the shaft you will lose all your transfer case fluid out of the output end of the transfer case. If you installed a slip-yoke eliminator which converts the slip yoke to a fixed yoke and replaces the driveshaft with one with a slip joint, you should be OK.
You can cap the hole. I believe it was Jerry B that stated a WD40 cap fits right on with a hose clamp to hold it in a pinch, but maybe something a little stronger is in order.
Other than that and being 'really' careful not to goose the gas when the wheels are turned there are no real issues. (The front wheels have U-joints, not CV joints so you have to be a bit easy on turns.)
I have driven my CJ7 like that after I cooked a driveshaft u-joint when pulling out a stuck (high centered) LR Disco. It even handled well up to the 60 mph I took it on the highway home.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
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(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
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