Floppy 90 doors. Easiest way to improve hinges?

Lee / Bob. Thanks, doesn't sound too hard. I'll get an order off to Craddocks / Paddocks tomorrow and have a go one evening next week.

Cheers,

Malcolm.

Just replace the hinges, there handed and the top and bottom hinges are also odd - so order the right ones! I think the part no.s are MXC 8282 - MXC8284 Use a large screwdriver to undo or if stubborn get the impact driver out. The retained nuts are individual to each bolt/screw, just unclip the old and replace with new Hinges £8-£10 each and nuts about 50p

Good luck

Lee

The good news is that each nut is on a seperate clip and are nut expensive from either your local parts emporium or ever L/R.

The pig can be getting the old ones off, my usual trick is to drill the head off the hinge bolt, 3mm drill to start then 9mm to do the business....

In message , McBad writes

On or around Wed, 26 May 2004 21:25:44 +0100, "McBad" enlightened us thusly:

get a bloody great crosshead screwdriver, with a square shaft, that actually fits the heads. I think they're pozidriv 4, which is BIG. put spanner on screwdriver shaft, lean like f*** on the back end of the screwdriver and you stand a chance that they'll come undone.

There is some scope for lifting the door by sliding the top hinge on the pillar, but not much.

Austin Shackles wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Why??

You guys are far too dainty for me. What are you going to do? Put the hinges on the side board as a conversation piece? Cut them off with the angle grinder!! The screw drivers, impact drivers, etc. probably won't work anyway! Use the edge of the disc and cut into the head, not across. The nut will drop down inside the door pillar but no one will know but you and me.

You put the new nuts on the screws, then tilt sideways to insert into the slots, then finger tighten until after you have positioned the door.

Derry (Paying bills and feeling aggressive)

M Hi,

If you want to do a perfect job you can use stainless steel door hinges. Those are expensive (about 150 pounds for the full set for two front doors) but they are adjustable and will definately outlast the life of your Defender and they look like a million dollars.

I used them on a D90 I am restoring for a very good friend of mine and in his words "those hinges are a cross between works of art and precision medical tools" (he is a doctor as you might have guessed)

The set got complete with allen headed stainless steel bolts and nuts.

Everything was installed using copper grease and rubber flanges so as to avoid electrolytic corrosion.

I can send you photos of the installed hinges if you like.

Take care Pantelis Giamarellos LAND ROVER CLUB OF GREECE

i've found an impact driver works. just make sure you use the right size bit. when refitting use stainless or coppergrease. richard

On or around 27 May 2004 08:25:38 GMT, Derry Argue enlightened us thusly:

much to my amazement, the ones on my 110 came loose with application of big screwdriver...

->On or around 27 May 2004 08:25:38 GMT, Derry Argue

-> enlightened us thusly:

->>You guys are far too dainty for me. What are you going to do?

->>Put the hinges on the side board as a conversation piece? Cut

->>them off with the angle grinder!! The screw drivers, impact

->>drivers, etc. probably won't work anyway! Use the edge of the

->>disc and cut into the head, not across. The nut will drop down

->>inside the door pillar but no one will know but you and me.

->

->much to my amazement, the ones on my 110 came loose with application of big

->screwdriver...

Or drill the heads out, much easier.

Hi Pantelis. Yes, I found some of these hinges on the MUD UK website (

) but although they look great Ican't afford the cash :o( . I am going to have some stainless nuts andbolts to fasten the hinges on with though (and some of those seat rails togive my knees a bit more room).... M

Is the corrosion with the stainless steel worse than the ordinary hinges ?

I can not say that I have first hand experience with electrolytic corrosion between stainless steel and aluminium but I considered it a good safety measure to apply the copper grease and be careful with the rubber flanges so as to guarantee that no such problem will arise in the future.

Stainless Steel is supposed NOT to corrode (at least not as easily and extensively are ordinary steel) but I was mainly worried about the aluminium alloy of the door skins and not the hinges themselves.

Take care Pantelis

"Pantelis Giamarellos" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berlin.de:

I'm sure I read somewhere that copper grease is something to be avoided near steel and aluminium if the aim is to avoid electrolytic corrosion. Dissimilar metals and all that stuff. But I could be wrong!

Derry

On or around 28 May 2004 07:41:57 GMT, Derry Argue enlightened us thusly:

you're probably right. copper grease is good on threads as it resists the tendency for them to rust together. for stopping electrolytic corrosion you want an electrical insulator such as a sheet of plastic.

Isn't there some sort of special grease-like material used in the aircraft industry?

It all depends on whether you want to screw two dissimilar metallic surfaces together or you want to permanently hold them together.

If you want to hold them permanently together you use Duralac (this is the stuff used in the aircraft industry along with another far more expensive one) between them (this is what I apply when I bolt the birmibright outer fenders on the tin bodyshell). If you want to use screws, rivnuts, dzus nuts etc you use either copper or aluminium grease (WURTH makes some excellent sprayable aluminium grease)

Take care Pantelis

P.S. The reason I do not have first hand experience with electrolytic corrosion despite living right in front of the sea, 7 meters away from the waves, is that I always galvanize all steel surfaces, apply Duralac and copper or alloy grease, put rubber strips between the flat surfaces when and if possible and rustproof the exposed ones.