flat towing instructions

If your CJ has the Dana 300, it's really not advisable to flat-tow it since there is no internal lubrication for the rear bearing when it's in neutral. If it's a Dana 20 or Quadratrac, I can't positively say how to flat tow it but the Dana 20, it's likely that the t-case should be in neutral and the tranny should be in gear.

Jerry

snipped-for-privacy@earthl> I just got a tow vehicle which is only rated to tow 4800 lbs.... so it

Then remove the rear drive shaft...

Tcase in N, but trans in 1st or R, or P if an automatic.

The directions say to leave the hubs unlocked but to stop every 200 miles and start the motor, leave the tcase in N, and let the trans spin the tcase gears for 5 or 10 minutes to lube the output shaft and bearing. However, if you leave the front hubs locked, the front output shaft will spin the tcase gears for you, and then you do not have to stop every 200 miles.

Of course, you want to leave the steering in the unlocked position, this might require you to leave the key in the ignition, so you need to remember to grab them if you go in for a meal.

Jerry, I flat tow CRWLR all the time.

The manual says to run the motor for a few minutes every 200 miles to solve the problem you cite. If you leave the front hubs locked, the front output shaft will spin the tcase gears to keep the rear output shaft and bearings lubed up.

Jerry, I do have the Dana 300, but I have custom unlockable hubs in the rear. I had assumed I should leave all 4 hubs locked in, however, in order to splash lubrication around when the wheels turned. However, maybe I'm mistaken... If I unlock them, would it eliminate the problem you describe?

RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?

Jerry Bransford wrote:

RoyJ wrote:

as much as I shouldn't say it, if you are overloaded at 4800=AD pounds with a trailer, you will be way overloaded with 3600 pounds flat =ADtowing so

the trailer would be better. Flat towing needs a bit less in=AD horsepower and braking but way more in stability to keep the CJ under c=ADontrol.

When you flat tow the Jeep (or anything else) the actual steeriing mechanics gets a little wierd. When the tow vehicle makes a turn the tow bar transfers a sideways force to the Jeep. If the Jeep has proper caster and alignment, it will want to continue in a straight line. The tow bar force causes the wheels to turn and the steering wheel to turn.

This sideways push on the tow vehicle from the flat tow is way more than the equivilent load from a trailer. Picture going down the road at 60 mph, need for a quick lane change. With a trailer you have the momentum to deal with. With a flat tow you have both the momentum AND the side push from the Jeep tires and suspension trying to push your back end around. On a wet road this is good for a wild ride.

On any trailer that is suitable for a Jeep (over 3000GVW) you will almost cetainly have trailer brakes. Were you planning on hooking up the brakes on the Jeep to be integrated with your tow vehicle? It can be done but it is not easy or cheap.

4400 pounds for a CJ sounds a bit on the high side unless you have huge tires, winch, rock bumpers, extra gas, etc etc. Typical 16' tandem axle car hauler sold around here weighs about 1400-1600 pounds. But you certainly would be up near 6000 pounds. So your choice is to flat tow with no trailer brakes and some additional handling issues or trailer with a substantial overload and brakes. Basic no win situation but I'd opt for the extra brakes on the trailer.

In my case, I drive my YJ to where ever I'm wheeling, usually around 150 miles each way. But I do have a heavy duty flat tow towing bar that bolts in place of my "D" ring shackles. Strictly for getting it home the day I blow an engine, tranny (Puegot 5sp!), or transfer case. Never used it (knock on wood!!!!) I'd be pushing my tow vehicle limit pretty hard. But in that case, I'd probably talk to my buddy with a 1 ton dually Chev into doing the actual retrieval run.

RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?

A trailer would have brakes. Flat towing does not.

Jerry Bransford wrote:

RoyJ wrote:

as much as I shouldn't say it, if you are overloaded at 4800­ pounds with a trailer, you will be way overloaded with 3600 pounds flat ­towing so

the trailer would be better. Flat towing needs a bit less in­ horsepower and braking but way more in stability to keep the CJ under c­ontrol.

The rules have changed a lot in the last few years, and not all states and providences are the same. In general, however, anything you tow that weighs more than 1,500 lbs. total needs auxiliary brakes. Doesn't matter if you flat tow or put it on a trailer. Check the requirement in the state(s) where you plan to tow.

Dick

What kind of armor do you have on that freakin CJ to make it weigh in at the max GVWR allowed to keep street legal?

Roy is saying, and I agree that a flat tow won't track so you have side shear to worry about. Nothing like making a left turn and not having enough weight on the tow vehicle to hold the back wheels down. You end up jack knifed faster than you can blink in the rain.

A trailer will track the turn easily....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Matt Macchiarolo wrote:

Boy, that can't be emphasized enough. We took off one day with our ZJ in tow, and I forgot to unlock the steering. At the first corner, the wheels turned until they locked, and our motorhome was dragging the ZJ down the street with the wheels turned about 30-degrees. By the time I got the motorhome stopped, the ZJ's chassis was so bound up I couldn't even open the drivers door. A painful lesson.

Dick

You didn't tel lus that you have Full Floaters in the rear. This is a ciritical bit of information. Unlock front and rear hubs, and tow.

With all four hubs unlocked, the drivetrain will be at rest no matter where the levers on the tcase and trans are set, and lubrication will not be an issue. Well, lubrication of the wheel bearings is a consideration, but this is the same wheter driving under your own power, or being drug down the road under the power of a tow vehicle.

Roy is suggesting that the CJ is prone to wandering, and if your tow vehicle is limited to 4800 pound loads, the CJ might wander too much to remain manageable. My CJ only weighs in at about 3700 pounds, I question yours at

4400. Roy's idea is that the trailer is an easier pull, and if your CJ is closer to the wieght of my CJ, and a trailer is only 1000 pounds, then it should be more stable.

RoyJ - Not sure I follow your logic. The CJ weighs about 4400 lbs. A trailer would add at least 1000 lbs (probably closer to 2000,) so I'd be way over my rated 4800lb towing capacity. Why would an overweight trailer be any safer/more stable than an acceptably weighted CJ?

Jerry Bransford wrote:

RoyJ wrote:

as much as I shouldn't say it, if you are overloaded at 4800­ pounds with a trailer, you will be way overloaded with 3600 pounds flat ­towing so

the trailer would be better. Flat towing needs a bit less in­ horsepower and braking but way more in stability to keep the CJ under c­ontrol.

YOU TOLD US IN ANOTHER POST THAT YOUR CJ HAS FULL FLOATING REAR HUBS. This is a critical bit of information AND IT CHANGES THE ENTIRE DISCUSSION.

Full Floaters allow flat towing, indeed they are a primary reason people even install them. Well, maybe not primary reason, but CERTAINLY this is an added benefit.

All you need do is unlock all four hubs, and you are ready to go. The tires will be disconnected at the hub from the entire rest of the drive train, COMPLETELY REMOVING the requirement to set the levers on the transmission and transfer case to any specific position. With the hubs unlocked on the rear axle, the drivetrain will remain at rest while you are towing your CJ.

Not only do Full Floaters let you flat tow, but if you manage to break an axle shaft, you can disconnect the affected tire and still drive your Jeep. This is the primary reason why people install them.

You bought a Bonus, you can flat tow without any worries.

You guys are missing an important point, the OP has Full Floating hubs, he can unlock his rear hubs and the tires turn independently of the drivetrain.

Yes, the issues of keeping his load under control remain, but the issue of flat towing and keeping the bearings and gears lubricated vanishes.

fully floating doesn't mean he has manually lockable hubs - did he say he had them ?

Actually, for turning while flat towing, the big issue is the front steering geometry. It has to have enough caster so it will center well and not wander, it can't have too much or it just won't turn. Add in some of the usual off road Jeep issues like big tires, lousy alignment, wear and tear on ball joints and the rest, and you have one that will not flat tow well.

The folks who flat tow all the time are the RV types. If you have a

17,000 pound W> You guys are missing an important point, the OP has Full Floating hubs,

Tow vehicle 02 Ford F250 V10.

I was able to get 3 jeeps on this trailer! :-)