Fuel problem

I would suspect that the fuel pickup inside the tank is screwed up somehow.

Chris

Since I didn't stop from the time I filled it to the time I stalled, I don't think so.

Actually I think it was like $.60 of gas. I squeezed the handle for about a half second.

I wasn't relying on the gauge, just saying it doesn't read correctly.

If the tank is full, you should siphon the tank till its empty. Makes it alot easier to deal with. Then remove the skid plate (if you have one) 4-6 bolts. Remove the fill and vent hose at the hose clamp. Lower the tank and remove the hoses that are attached at the sending unit and the grounding wire and the sending wire. Then with the tank unhooked and on the ground, just twist the Guage locking ring and remove it. Pull out the old sending unit. You might use this opportunity to clean out the tank, get all that sediment and dirt out. Rinse it with gas. Just insert the new sending unit. And install the new lock ring.

Brad

First I would be looking for a hole in the gas line. Your gas line is a suction line and if there is a hole in it, it can run ok until the gas gets below the level of the hole, then it will suck air.

Topping it up raises the gas level, so some gravity feed is involved.

They usually leak where the clamps hold the line to the frame or the flex lines rot and leak either at the tank or pump.

Because it is a suction line, it might not leak out onto the ground.

The other suction leak could be in the tank. The pickup tube which is part of the gauge unit can rust away.

What kind of shape is the air filter on the gas tank vent? If plugged up with mud, it will vacuum lock the gas tank and do the damnedest imitation of running out of gas you ever want to see. Let it sit for 10 or 20 minutes and it will fire up and run again.

Mike

Jay Stuler wrote:

Or, at least, the automatic shut-off nozzle thought that the tank was full because it got backpressure. Maybe it isn't really full, with a bad gauge you can't be certain. Any kinks or other restrictions in the fuel filler plumbing?

A couple of thoughts: Bad fuel filter (easy, cheap fix). Crud sucked up against the mesh strainer at the bottom of the fuel sender (more expensive, busted-knuckle fix). Rotting body mounts have allowed the tub to settle down on the fuel line where it goes over the cross member ahead of the tank and pinch it mostly shut (drilling, tapping, sawing, chiseling, melting metal work).

A passing thought: Those two gallons will take you about 27 miles.

The next time it dies, pull the fuel line between the fuel filter and the carb, see if you've got gas when you crank. If not, pull the line ahead of the filter and see if you've got gas. If not you know the problem is between there and the bottom of the tank. My guess is the bottom of the tank.

Original tank? Maybe it leaks but does it so slowly it isn't obvious. It might be just a damp spot on the skid plate.

Good luck!

No, I visually observed it to be full. Also the gasoline that poured out on my toes doubly confirmed it. That's confirmation with 4 of the 5 senses.

Well if it leaks out completely over 27 miles that isn't very slowly. It sat with a full tank for weeks with no leaks.

I'm thinking you guys are right about the fuel sender. I bet the gauge isn't actually bad either. Hopefully that will fix both of my fuel problems. Thanks!

Go for the fifth :-)

Hey, it's your labor, but I sure would be looking for a leaky line or plugged gas tank vent before ripping out the tank.

Mike

Jay Stuler wrote:

That's... pretty good confirmation. I'd buy it.

But like Mike says, start under the hood before you go and drop the tank. It is a fair piece of work to get out and back in, even when dry.

Does your `76 have a skid plate? If it does, and if it is the same as the one used in `79, there's three nutted bolts along the front of the plate, these will be uncomfortable to get out unless you've got really small hands. There's four nutted carriage bolts along the trailing edge of the plate, you'll probably end up grinding these off because the carriage bolts drop in from above (behind the rear cross member) and the square holes are probably now round. Don't touch the fifth one, dead center at the trailing edge. That one is the stud end of the tank mounting strap that runs across the top of the tank. You don't need to remove it to drop the tank and if you try, you'll probably twist the stud off the strap.

Good luck!