Hard to start...

-- msosborn at msosborn dot com

Less that 20,000 with regular dealership oil changes and check-ups. Due for one very soon but want to go in armed!

Seahag

"L.W.(Bill) Hughes III" wrote:

Rats, I'll have to try that tomorrow. I've already started her today and after the first laggy start-up she starts normally.

Seahag

wrote:

OK, I did what you said and left the key on until all the guages came up. Turned the key off and then tried to start it. I got the same laggy start.

Seahag

"Seahag" wrote:

I find when I clean the connections on the throttle body and the CPS connections with spray contact cleaner, my 4.0 starts a lot faster. These are all low power computer signal plugs that can be affected by the slightest corrosion. They always look clean, but the effect of cleaning them is dramatic.

My 'new' 87 is now getting checked over slowly but surely by me and it was revving at 2300 when started most times. A fast spray on what looked like a clean TPS connection and the next start has it purring at

650 rpm.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

When the fuel pump check valve goes south, the fuel drains from the fuel line and the Jeep won't start until the line is refilled. It takes the fuel pump some time to refill the line, depending on how completely the fuel line has emptied.

The fuel pump is turned on for a couple of seconds (I'm not sure how long it runs) when the ignition is turned on. On my Jeep, the problem became progressively worse. At first, I had to 'run the pump' only once before it would start. After a month or so, I had to 'run the pump' two or three times before starting the Jeep.

If you see no improvement in starting by 'running the pump', then it may not be the fuel pump check valve.

-- msosborn at msosborn dot com

Matt Osborn did pass the time by typing:

You could do what they do on race cars and just have a switch to run the pump. :) On/Off

Thanks, Mike. I'll give the fuel pump test another run and try the spray. Is regular computer contact cleaner OK to use?

Seahag

"Mike Roma>I find when I clean the connections on the throttle body

Maybe I didn't leave the key on long enough. I'll give it another shot tomorrow. Thanks.

Seahag

Do ya have to pull the air cleaner and the throttle body to get everything clean? I've become no longer able to keep my full membership in the Procrastination Protection Society, and this has been an item on my preventative list for a bit too long. Is a 95 ZJ 4.0 if it matters.

Mike Romain proclaimed:

You don't have to remove the air box but you will have to pull off the pipe that goes from the throttle body to the air box.

You can do a pretty good cleaning with removing the throttle body from the intake manifold with the use of a good cleaner and an old tooth brush.

Spray liberally, scrub, and rinse. Repeat until clean.

You can also remove the throttle body for cleaning.

Remove all the control cables, loosen the bolts, and remove for cleaning. On the 4 liter you have to replace the gasket, the 4.7's is reusable..

If you have an IAC motor you can undo the 2 bolts holding it on and carefully pull it out. Clean with the spray and a clean rag. Allow to dry before reassembly.

Lon did pass the time by typing:

You can do a much better job if you remove the TB and put it on the bench.

But you can also get good results with just an old toothbrush and TB cleaner. Cleaning the idle air passage isn't as easy but you can remove that bit from the throttle body then put it back.

Prior to taking the throttle body off you might want to get a new gasket. Usually they are reusable but sometimes they rip.

You don't have to remove the electroics unless you want to. The TPS should be left alone. If you remove the IAC (idle air controller) don't pull on the pintle, just spray the cavity and hit it with a toothbrush.

When I do a major tune up, I pull off the tube and spray everything in and out with throttle body cleaner. I spray once, let it sit, then hit it the second time. So far I haven't 'needed' to remove the throttle body.

When I clean all the electronics' connections, I leave everything in place.

Mike

L>

And I just polished my nails!

Seahag

Thanks for the link, Bill. It's made up my mind for me to stick with the dealer for the maintenence.

Seahag

"L.W.(Bill) Hughes III" wrote:

Send Pappy out to do the manual labor while you supervise.

You already have him bewitched don't you?

Hahaha, he's built his share of cars. About the most Jeep bewitched he is is making me get bigger tires! I'll get roundtoit...

Seahag

"billy ray" wrote:

It probably only takes 10-15 minutes with a can of GumOut and an old toothbrush..