help! 95 XJ - growl at 40+ mph

DOH!!!! transfer case was VERY low on fluid,,,, apparent leak towards front. Is there a seal that needs to be replaced? How difficult of a job is it?

thanks again paul

Double DOH and a YIKES!

Drained remaining fluid (less than a quart came out) noticed some very small metal fines near the drain plug. Added fluid and went for a test drive -- low speed click is still noticable, growl is worse and vehicle is jerking when put into full time 4 wheel drive.

This is sounding serious (translate $$$$) any ideas?

thanks paul

Take the transfer case apart and see what is wrong with it. "Apparent leak towards front" could be front output shaft or less likely input shaft. Input shaft is inside the housing bolted to the transmission, and less likely to leak, but you should try to find the exact source before removing the transfer case. I don't know the exact capacity of the Selec-Trac case, but Command-Trac is only one to one point five quarts, depending on model. That means that you "probably" didn't damage the transfer case with low fluid.

I imagine that there is gear or differential damage or at least something expensive, but if you stop driving it immediately you may prevent the case from grenading.

Earle

You have 3 u-joints on the front driveshaft. I would remove that and try driving it before I messed with the t-case.

Metal filings aren't a good sign though....

Mike

Mike,

Does he have three u-joints, or a CV joint and a single cross joint? The CV joints have a centering gizmo that can make clicks and maybe growls when it starts to go bad.

Earle

Isn't it just a double cardan joint? That would be 2 U-joints in a cage.

If the front u-joint(s) are bad, they can wreck the TC yoke seal from vibration too.

Mike

Earle Hort>

Some of them have a centering device inside the cage.

Earle

Yes 3 u-joints on the front drive shaft (2 at transfer case end and 1 at differential). I will try disconnecting it and see what happens. The filings are very small -- sliver like....... crossing fingers.

thanks paul

OK, I removed the front drive shaft and the sounds was gone!!!! BUT if I put the transfer case into 4 wheel drive the sound returns....... so I'm thinking that something to do with the front output???

For what it's worth, last winter when shifting into 4 wheel full time (this is a Select-Trac NP242J) the shifting sequence goes thru 4 wheel part time first and sometimes would want to 'hang' in part time, requiring a bit of a yanking motion to engage full time 4 WD.

any more thoughts????

thank YOU paul

What happens when you manually turn the front output shaft or yoke, from underneath the vehicle, with the TC in 2H? If you have a bad bearing there, you should be able to feel it. There may be play too. If not, then that points to your interaxle differential, internal to the transfer case.

Earle

Thanks Earle, I will check for a bad bearing this evening after work and let you know.

Is the interaxle a difficult fix?

thanks paul

You would have to disassemble the entire transfer case. It depends on how comfortable you are around planetary gear assemblies, shafts, bearings, and chains. Some people can rip right into one of these things, tell you what is wrong, and have a parts list ready in an hour, two on a slow day.

From what you have said, the growl originates inside the transfer case, and most people would call this a "difficult fix". I haven't had this particular model apart, but if it were mine I would probably be ambitious/dumb enough to try fixing it myself.

Earle

Gentlemen, Thanks for all the input,,, here is what I have found with further inspection.

Bearing on the front output feels good. There is a noticeable 'clanky/crunchy' sound that occurs every 2 revolutions of the front output yoke.

This leads me to wish full thinking and believing that the drive chain has a segment that is broke and everytime it comes around it is 'clanking/ crunching'. Hopefully not too much dinero ($).

I believe I could do this myself if I had the time, my concern is that with the 'easy jobs' there is always that 1 bolt that wants to strip or snap (in fact removing the front drive shaft ALMOST turned into a mess, save for some PB Blaster, a torch and a pair of vise grips). I will take it in to a local shop that was recommended by people I trust, and with an education as to what may be wrong.

Plus the fact that if I don't get my wife's jeep back in order fast, she will keep driving my YJ and taxiing me around,,,,, I don't like to be away from my jeep for long periods of time.

thanks again! paul

Just remember when you split the case, only pry at the places where the case has been built up. You will see the big blocks of aluminum and pry groove. Prying anywhere else is asking to crack the case.

If teeth are gone or the chain is shot you might be better off buying a rebuilt unit or searching the junk yards. Unless you like to work on transfer cases that is. Some places in those you will need a press if you break them far enough apart.

Price the factory unit here.

Just for a $$$ calibration, here is a price list for rebuilt transfer cases.

M> Gentlemen,