Those are them.
They work well and are a good supplement to a power winch. We have used them to pull rigs sideways and hold rigs while being pulled in the other direction.
They also are a must in my mind if you have a power winch and run trails where you actually might 'need' the winch to get through. Anything electric can and will fail at the worst time.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:
Tookie - Denham Springs, LA
88YJ, 4" lift, 33" TSLs, Lock-Rights PosiLock, 4.10sgo here
That's OK if you don't put your windshield down ...something just looks "unsafe" about it ...but a clever spot nonetheless.
I'll have to disagree with you Mike. There are many tools, when improperly used, that can be dangerous (anything from a sledge hammer, to an ax, or a chain saw). There is not a ride that I have been on where a Hi-Lift jack has not been used; from changing tires, or moving off stuck points, to breaking down a bead to replace a sheared valve stem. We teach rookies what we call Hi-Lift 101, which includes do's and don'ts, safety, and how to keep that handle from beating the crap out of ya.
Jim I'll go along with most of the except for using a Hi-Lift just to change a tire. Rarely except on the worst of trails is a Hi-Lift the right tool for changing a tire. It's a lot less safe and a lot slower than just using the OE bottle jack. I use my OE jack for my 35" tires and I'm pretty sure it has enough height to get a 37" tire changed as well. :)
Jerry
Isn't that where it usually happens "on the worst of trails"? Consider a Jeep with an SOA (no flat place for a bottle) and 35's in a rough position; a properly placed Hi-Lift works well. We don't carry OE jacks on our modified rides.
Anyway... to each his own. ;-)
JimG
Yes, if you let go of the handle on the way down, and don't control it like when you went up, it can beat the crap out of you (Hi-Lift 101, Lesson 1). Kind of like - if you let go of a running chain saw it can cut the crap out of you. ;-)
while draggin my new jack around the jeep and tryin to figure out a spot for mounting it yesterday i stopped at my back bumbper, , heres my thought, the tailgate hinges,, if one was to drill,or weld a 1/2 inch bolt to the hinges,,3 inches long, washers and rubber bumpers, then a 1/2X1 inch bolt welded to the bumper for the jack to sit on, with rubber pad, , itd stand upright and wouldent rattle around, and the bolts could be drilled for locking,
other then needing to open the tailgate i dont see any other bad in this setup, any comments advice?
johnp ya it fits around my 30 inch tires,
Some folks just miss the obvious....
The lift makes no difference when changing a tire!
You only need a bottle or scissor or my preference a small floor jack to lift the axle about 2" to change a tire. (my owners manual even points that out, I know, I know, I am the only one who reads the damn book)
You need to go up about 2' in the air on the bumper with a 'widow maker' to change a tire.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sJimG wrote:
You just flunked 'highlift 101'.
If you bump the damn thing slightly when up the handle can/will go ballistic all by it's self!
Really!
I had that wonderful experience with someone's brand new 'widow maker' a couple years ago.
We were cleaning up an off road area and the jack was used to lift up a vehicle hulk so a big truck could chain onto it.
Someone bumped the thing and the handle almost took the side of my face off!
They cannot safely be left unattended even long enough to get an axle stand under them, you must use two people and have one always holding that damn thing.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT'sJimG wrote:
Mike is completely correct here, but the selector needs to be set to the Lowering position. If the jack is set to raise the load, the handle will not run away.
Bill is not one to let technicalities get in the way of a good argument.
Bumpers changed to accomodate federal mandates that they survive a 5mph impact. To accomplish this mandate, the car makers started putting shock absorbers on the bumper mounts that do not like sideways loads on them. Bumpers these days only look like they are near the body of the car, the reality is the covers is near the body, but the part that does the work is several inches from the body. Lifting from the bumper would probably bend it in most cases, so now cars are lifted by the frame, or subframe.
Another technicality that really screws up a good argument is that bumper jacks from yesteryear take up lots of space, a well thought out scissor jack will fit inside the rim of the spare tire, in space that cant be used for anything else anyhow.
Exactly! Mike flunked Hi-Lift 101, you passed Jeff.
JimG
Wrong again!
Only if the selector is set for lowering and you let go of the handle, will it go ballistic. All of these particulars are covered in Hi-Lift 101, Lesson 1.
Again... to each his own. :-)
JimG
Another friend a couple months ago found out 'his' highlift will just 'drop' to the ground if bumped right when in the 'up' mode. Almost took his finger off when he was trying to reset it 'up' for storage.
Who needs em?
Some fool farmer got a Jeep and used that sucker for things it was never designed for and everyone followed him like a heard of sheep.
Mike
JimG wrote:
The Hi-Lift's instructions include a warning that if there is not at least 100 lbs on the jack, it can drop to the ground when the lever is in the 'Up' position. I continue carrying my Hi-Lift, just in case, but I sure treat it as strictly a tool of last-resort. It's just an accident waiting to happen..
Jerry
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