I've got gas

I have an Atomic4 in my boat, (1976) there is no oil filter at all. that being said, it's in a sailboat! less than 500 hrs on the meter. Its a 30hp flathead motor NOT based on the Continental, or IH's Cub ...

She has given many years of safe, reliable performance. changed the plugs cap conds. rotor and coil in 1994, might change the plugs next year. the oil filtering mod you speak of is certainly available, but not all that popular due to space restraints. Change the oil every year and it runs just fine. Paul

Yes, but I saw no mention of the recommended engine oil.

According to the owners manual,

3 to 5 quarts of SAE 30, OR SAE 10W30. No mention of detergent, or non-detergent.

from

keep in mind the atomic4 has a wet clutch!

What oil should I use in my Atomic Four marine engine?

Type: non-synthetic

API rating: SG or SG equivalent

Viscosity: Average temperature under 10°C / 50°F: SAE 10-40 Average temperature over 10°C / 50°F: SAE 20-50

Atomic Four Engine Service recommends only the motorcycle oils listed below in order to prevent forward clutch slip while providing maximum engine protection and optimum piston ring break-in. All the oils listed are available in both 10-40 and 20-50 viscosities. We use Castrol Grand Prix

20-50 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil.

Castrol Grand Prix 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil (available in 1 litre cans in Canada) Shell Advance SX4 Motorcycle Oil (available in 1 litre cans in Canada) Valvoline 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil (not sold in Canada) Belray EXL Motorcycle Oil (comes in US quarts only - not available in full -size 1 litre cans in Canada) Pennzoil Motorcycle Oil (comes in US quarts only - not available in full -size 1 litre cans in Canada) Quaker State 4-Cycle Motorcycle Oil (comes in US quarts only - not available in full-size 1 litre cans in Canada)

Notes: Never use ANY oil additives. Do not switch brands. Do not overfill.

So, YMMV.

I like some of the cautions and definitions listed there.

"Should I add supplements to my oil?

No. Modern engine oil already has lots of additives, including detergents, dispersants, corrosion inhibitors, antioxidants, viscosity-index improvers, extreme-pressure additives, and 28 other chemicals. Do not add any oil supplements (i.e. Slick 50, STP, Marvel Mystery Oil, kerosene, diesel fuel, automatic transmission fluid, rotten bananas, etc) to the oil. Oil supplements can damage the engine"

What will I do with my rotten bananas now? I can't eat that much banana bread.

"What is a rebuilt engine?

A rebuilt engine is an engine that has had most of the larger lumps of rust scraped off with a paint scraper, some of the dirt and salt washed off with a garden hose, the crack in the cylinder head patched with JB Weld, everything (including the spark plug leads and flame arrester air intake ) painted any old colour with left-over cans of house paint, the old oil topped up with a mixture of Marvel Mystery Oil and STP, fitted with lawn mower spark plugs and 4 foot spark plug wires from an old V8 Chevrolet, a cheap gate valve installed in the thermostat bypass hose, initially started with a spray can of starting fluid after sitting outside with a tarp over it for several years, and advertised as "...completely rebuilt Universal engine, fresh-water cooled, like new, 2 year warranty, see it running, call Midnight Marine Supply - pager 999-9999"..."

Yes, it is still around for motorcycles with wet clutches.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Aeroshell is still available in a completely nondetergent grade. The old Chevy Power books GM put out through its dealers recommended nondetergent Aeroshell for break in of racing engines and AD for racing use.