I've got a hoist!

I outbid someone on eBay by a whopping 2 pence (how satisfying is that??!!) on a brand new hoist, and I'm going to collect it tomorrow. I've now got the wonderful job of swapping my engines over!

Any tips/pointers/advice for me? its the first time i've ever attempted to do anything major like this. It's looks fairly straighforward according to the 3 different manuals I've got but I'd value other opinions.

Thanks, Paul

Reply to
Pacman
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By the way I should point out that I've already removed all the ancillaries, manifold etc. All thats left to do is unbolt it from the gearbox and the engine mounts....

Reply to
Pacman

You can leave the manifolds and ancilliaries on to take it out you know! (unless you need to swap them over onto the new lump anyhow)

Its really easy to get a landy engine out with a hoist. Ive always done it by removing the front panel and radiator (as one is easiest).

The hardest bit can be seperating the engine and gearbox. You may want to support the bottom of the gearbox with a trolley jack to make it easier. this also means you can lift it up to keep it straight with the engine. If they wont come apart then check that you havent missed a bellhousing bolt!. me and a mate spent ages on one before he realised that he hadnt done the last bellhousing bolt!

Make sure you fix the engine on to the lift securely. Old seatbelts make fairly good lifting straps.

Reply to
Tom Woods

I need to swap them to the new lump, but Hayne$ said to remove them all, so I'd have probably done it anyway!!

I've taken the radiator out, but the front panel is still on, I'm scared to take it off in case it falls to bits!! ;-)

Will it just come straight off or will a bit of brute force with my dead blow hammer be required? I suppose as long as the bolts remain level it should come off with ease...shouldnt it?

I'm not sure if my new crane comes with straps, I don't think it does, so I'll have to find something similar.

Thanks for your advice!

Reply to
Pacman

I don't know if they're on a Land Rover, but on the tractors I've split there have been little recesses in the casting, giving a slot at the joint for a pry-bar or heavy screwdriver. The bolts are the main thing, but there can be a little stick, maybe friction in the holes, that needs to be overcome at the start.

Reply to
David G. Bell

Unless you have taken a wing off, and if you have a conventional engine lift then you will most likely not be able to lift it high enough to clear the front panel (its also scary lifting it that high!). If i were you i would take the panel off. Its only the 3 bolts along the bottom and a couple down each wing. If the bottom is rusty you can always get someone to weld a bit of angle along it for you.

If you lift the engine enough to get it off the mounts, and then jack the front of the gearbox so that they are still stright to each other it shouldnt be too hard. If you get a lever inbetween they should seperate fairly easily.

I generally either use some seatbelts or some fairly hefty rope - but im always more wary when im using the rope!

Reply to
Tom Woods

I'm inclined to suggest getting some proper straps, with a rated load at least as great as that for the hoist. You can be quite safe with ropes, even old seatbelts, if you know what you're doing. But the right gear doesn't have to be expensive, and it fends off the clipboard-carriers who may never had EP90 dribbling down their overalls.

Reply to
David G. Bell

I use chain - then there's nothing to fray and you know that it can't break.

Reply to
EMB

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