Jeep-Deere body lift question

If it is a boxed frame, the added torque on the mounts will increase the cracking potential if you off road it. The frames like to torque crack in front of the rear passenger spring hanger on the inside and over on the drivers side frame behind the front spring hanger on the inside or bottom.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jeepers wrote:

1) Extend steering shaft 2) Lower the clutch linkage 3) Cutout floorboard to clear shifters

pros:

1) clearance for accessing things like top of gas tank, steering gear box, shift linkage 2) tire clearance

cons:

1) body roll, body flex 2) deteriorated handling 3) high center of gravity

Solution? Pix? Links? Thanks.

O.K. I thought so. No biggie.

Hydraulic.

Done.

Why is the handling worsened?

Thanks Bill. Ew, I'd rather not, BUT, I didn't want to raise the body to begin with. The tranny isn't a real big problem, it's the clocked d300. The lobe is up pretty high, I may have no choice but to create a new tunnel.

Any pix, links?

While I'm at it, how much clearance do I really need between drivetrain components and the body. I was shootin fer about 2" if possible.

The cracks are a defect in the design that happened when they went from a C channel frame to a double C box. The single C channel could twist freely. When the double C twists, it stresses the crap out of the lengthwise weld which gets weak due to holding mud and salt slush inside it. It then splits and allows the two separate C channels to move independent. The inner one will then kink (compression) crack up right in front of the rear spring hanger.

Mine is totally blown out on the inside, so I had the outside C channel plated on 3 sides along the area 4 or 5 years ago. The beefed up Channel has held perfectly and I let the inside fall apart. Same for the front passenger side.

There are companies that offer pre made plates for both the inside and outside of the front and rear frame torque areas. So you can just buy them 'first' rather than do catch up repairs when it breaks like I have done....

When I get a new frame, I want it plated like that 'first' because I twist the crap out of my CJ7 on trails.

I live in the salt belt and see 'most' CJ's with that rear crack starting linearly on the bottom weld if not already broken open.... :-(

Mike

Jeepers wrote:

Because of cons 1 and 3? n.

Thanks Nathan... I guess I could have worded differently.

BTW... I make these comments after I removed the 2" BL (installed by the PO) and put new stock mounts in... what a difference!

JimG

I dunno, I thought it was pretty clear. n.

1) Fixable.

3) WTF has this to do with handling?

Bill, any links or examples of tunnels?

He also posted 3 CONS (which I referenced):

cons:

1) body roll, body flex 2) deteriorated handling 3) high center of gravity

n.