Leaf-spring help

im recieving a set of "unbent,untwisted," stock 90YJ, leaf-springs tommorrow, to replace the ones i bent up on the mountain,so i have a question, can one double up on any of the leafs, and in doing so is there any benifit? the "old" leafs are good except the main-leaf,

thank you, johnp yes im addicted im saving for a rubicon 4.5 lift,,,ha,, and a winch,and a this,and a that,,

Reply to
scopenutt
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More lift and stiffer ride come to mind. KH

Reply to
Kevin in San Diego

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Yes, because they were so damn skinny.

-Brian

Reply to
Cherokee-Ltd

Doubling up on any springs increases the load rating or decreases the flex rating.

On the CJ7, there are two different spring packs you can get. One is for the hard top and hard doors version and comes with 2 or 3 extra leafs in each pack.

I believe the top long springs are the same with the extra ones being the short 'overload' type bottom leafs. This increases the load rating without compromising the flex rate much.

If you double up on the long leafs, that will decrease the flex rate and make for a stiffer ride while not helping much for more load.

Neither one will give you lift.

I think I have that right....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Bill, i was just told by a local spring manufacurer, that if i bring in both sets, bad and good, he would re-arch mt prings for a 2inch lift, and rebuild all for 150.00 using both sets,

is this worth it with the original srings? or better to just change the bent ones out and keep original till i get enough money for a "real" RE spring system

thanks john

Reply to
scopenutt

I am not Bill, but I did just what you are thinking about 5 years ago and my old arched set haven't sagged a bit. I off road pretty hard too.

The shop put one new leaf in that was already temper arched right to hold the bent arch in the rest.

If you are having a manufacturer do that, it is likely a proper temper arch seeing as the machine is right there which is supposed to last a long time too.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Reply to
L.W.( ßill ) Hughes III

Thanks guys, johnp

Reply to
scopenutt

Wow, 150 sounds cheap. Go for it. KH

Reply to
Kevin in San Diego

one more dumb question if i go for a re-arch on all four springs,

what else do i need to have on hand when i replace them? do i need to drop the transfer case? is so how much? do i need to change the angle of the axels? aka shim? do i need longer brake lines? do i need to change my pitman arm?

cripes sounds like buying a kit might be better, thanks johnp a certified addict,With- jeep named "ditch-dawg"

Reply to
scopenutt

forgot to mention, he also is going to lift/bend, or whatever they do. them for a 2inch lift,

Reply to
scopenutt

Yeah. I was told $125 each to repair the (two) leaf springs in my BroncoII. It failed inspection because each spring had a cracked leaf (and the e-brake was siezed). Not to mention, that $125 price is for me to remove and reinstall the springs myself, not to take the vehicle to the spring shop.

-D

Reply to
Derrick Hudson

I went 2.5" on my springs and 1/2" on my shackles.

I had no choice on the shackles at the time because my CJ ones were rotten and all that could be found was YJ ones.

I put on the proper longer shocks to match the lift. I lowered the bracket for the rear brake line, the front ones still had enough, but on a friend's YJ that went 4.5" we also lowered the front brake line brackets.

The taller shackle put me right at the edge of u-joint troubles because they didn't match them with shims. The local Jeep 'god' who had a shop next to the spring shop insisted they would be fine, well.... I eat a lot of rear driveshaft u-joints up. This Jeep guy only has $$$ in his mind thinking he had another sucker on the hook.

I have to fix my rear frame tails and am going to put 'proper' sized shackles in when I do that. I also think I might put in new 2" bigger bump stops to lessen the impact stress on my shocks. I have a couple shock anchor pins that are bending I noticed and I have snapped one rear one right off in the past.

Other than that, 2" isn't enough lift to start things vibrating usually so you don't need to worry about lowering t-cases or shimming axles.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

a couple months ago I pieced together new springs..

When I bought my Jeep the guy threw in 2 matching re-arched springs. I bought 2 more used for $50. Turns out all of them have 2" worth or arch in them, which was nice...

Half the bushings were rubber and I replaced them all with poly which was $100CAD, that also included all the collars, I had the local spring shop make U-bolts for about $50.00. 5 hours of grunting and snorting got them installed....So for about $200 I got a 2" lift.

The only problem I have is one of the re-arched springs sits about half an inch lower than the other 3....I can live with that for now. A far cry cheaper than $800 for the cheapest lift I could find.

Reply to
Jasonp

Just curious is it the front drivers side that sits a little low?

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jas>

Reply to
Mike Romain

rear passenger..

Is it possible that it was just a bad "re-arch"?

Reply to
Jasonp

Yes.

Mike

Jas>

Reply to
Mike Romain

thats kinda what I figured, but for the price, I can live with it for a couple years.

I have 31" BFG AT's so im happy for now.

Reply to
Jasonp

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