I take one look inside my jeep and say to myself, "hmm, not to many options here for mounting radios -- especially two"
Any ideas guys/girls, maybe send some link to photos. For now I just plan on laying it on the passenger floor.
Chris Maness KQ6UP
I take one look inside my jeep and say to myself, "hmm, not to many options here for mounting radios -- especially two"
Any ideas guys/girls, maybe send some link to photos. For now I just plan on laying it on the passenger floor.
Chris Maness KQ6UP
What, do you need one thread for each radio or something?
I thought the first thread was progressing well. I find that when folks start multiple threads on a subject, they get totally screwed up because of conflicting advise crossing the threads in 'their' minds which confuses the s*it out of them. The advise won't be conflicting in the thread it was posted in, but take it in the context of the next thread(s), it can be wrong or misleading or confusing.
Just my $0.02.
Lets start off eh?
So what flavor and year of Jeep? Makes a radical difference.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Go with your 2m radio of choice (I like the FT-1500M, mil spec, compact) and a Cobra 75 WX ST. Not much there but the mic. I stuffed the 'box' under the console in the TJ.
tw
WHats your rig and how do you use it? Makes a heck of a difference. If you are apt to do any high water crossings, you dont want anything under the seats or down on the floor.
Also, what radio, that makes a difference too.
Personally, I use Yeasus handhelds and just clip them onto the spreader for the softtop.
-jenn K7MUD
If you have space on the transmission hump, CB shops sell "hump mounts." They put the front of the radio at a viewable angle, and use serrated edges to hold them in place on the carpet-no holes to drill.
Dan
I don't think theres room for one of them there contraptions. The same folks that make the nifty antenna mount also make a radio mount that goes on top of the supports that go from the roll bar to the front window. That looks pretty cool, what do you guys think?
I started a new thread because this is a new subject. The first thread was about antenna mounts not radio mounts.
I have a 2006 Wrangler UT (Unlimited).
That is a nice mount, mind you I had a hell of a time trying to figure what the mounts actually look like in the pics but after I figured it, it looks like a great idea, especially using the door surround holes to mount it...I may try to make one of these myself...
Jeff VE1WWH (worlds worst ham)
And then there's this
I got a Tuffy center console. My MkIIG and tuner go in the console and is very securely locked up. I can run the control head to the dash or run the mic through a hole with a grommet. Inconspicuous, neat, professional installation and Secure. My only concern would be enclosed heat for long ragchews in the summer but have never had a problem and a milstd xcvr should be easy. Tuffy's console for Jeeps also has a forward, locking slot for a stereo. I think the overhead compartment that mounts between the roll bar and the windshield would work well and have some cool points as a bonus. I'd be more concerned about summer heat since it's a smaller enclosure and puts the xcvr right under the roof, though there's an airgap 'tween the enclosure and the roofline. This kind of install should keep everything (I can think of) well away from any significant computer or electronics. Drink WP3JQ
I find HTs to be underpowered and have a useless antenna.
Once you've plugged in an antenna, microphone and power cord, where do you put it so it doesn't hit the floor. Plus, all the connectors will wear out quickly or develop bad solder joints. Just get a good 2 meter radio, like an Icom IC-2100H. You can remove one "jumper" and do MURS on it, also!
Carpet? Real Jeeps have no carpet!! :)
22 gauge wire? It he nuts!!!! How the hell can you even power a stock CB with #22 without major power loss? You can't. To prove my point, measure the voltage at the other end of the wire with the unit off and on. You'll see at least a 1 volt drop just from a stock CB. The CB users all state to use at least #14 or #12 to prevent voltage drop (read power loss). I ran #6 to the battery for all my stuff. Be sure to run an equal length of the same gauge ground wire to the battery. Don't expect the frame grounds to stay good forever. The ground mesh will rot and the nuts and bolts get corrosion on them over time. Be sure to fuse BOTH leads in case of a ground failure. All the starting current will try to find it's way back to the battery through your ground with dire consequences for your equipment.
Also, feeding your radios from the battery gives much cleaner power then using the vehicles existing electrical system. You'll pick up lots of electrical noise using the cigarette lighter plug.
-Scott, 28 years in 2-way radio
I use a GE 3-5900 handheld. It is has full power, runs off 12 volt battery power, and utilizes a full size external magnetic antenna.
In the highway it sits on the center of the roof for maximum range and off-road it sits on the hood cowling to protect it from low hanging branches.
The unit normally sits, when in use, on the console but can go anywhere within the range of its six foot power cord including hanging off the built-in hook on the back of the transceiver.
Agree with the battery connection. The battery's basically acting as a giant capacitor and helps with spikes. The wire gauge's right on too. Too darned small. Drink WP3JQ
Except for echolink, I don't think my 2 meter or 440 will make it to Florida from Baltimore.
Stupid Uncle ruled on everything except the horse and buggy measure! (CW)
If your email is good, check there for one from me. It will be from a different email addy.
GM for one say if you use less than 10 gauge for both the power and grounds on a transmitter, you will void the vehicle warranty. Smaller lines kick of RF it implies.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
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