oil filter mount

I bought the o-rings from the dealer, my dad put them in today while I was at work. The oil pressure is still pretty much zero. Does one of the holes in the male piece have to line up with the hole in the female piece? I don't have any pictures, but if need be I can pull it apart and get pictures. So is the oil pressure probably related to the oil filter mount or should I be looking elsewhere? I'm thinking it's the former, because the oil pressure was fine before I messed with the filter mount. Any ideas?

If this got sent out twice I apologize.

Reply to
The Merg
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Other causes of low oil pressure could be bearings worn out, oil pump clogged or worn out, starved input or an internal engine oil passage leaking. Those are all pretty unlikely, but one never knows. There is an oil pressure relief valve, sometimes in the pump and sometimes in the adapter you are playing with, that can be stuck open. You can get a bad oil filter too. Usually only one thing goes wrong at a time, but there's Murphy's Law.

The manual I have is pretty skimpy with information on the oil filter adapter, but if there are several ways to line it up you may have a wrong one now.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

I tried a new filter, no help. I wonder if perhaps the oil pressure sensor is bad? There is a sensor on the oil filter mount - I pulled it, and it was covered in oil. Is there a way to manually check oil pressure? What would the oil pressure relief valve look like? Oh, and Murphy's Law has kicked in - the car won't start. The starter is turning, but it won't catch. It's started fine up to this point, and it seems like I have fuel pressure. When I crank it over, the temp gauge pegs - what would that mean? I figured this was as good a time as any to check the distributor, and the posts for cyls 1 and 6 were corroded. I doubt this caused the problem, but I'm going to replace the cap, wires, and plugs anyway. Might as well do the coil too? I know I can't expect much from a $500 car, but jeez, it's just one thing after another.

Earle Hort> Other causes of low oil pressure could be bearings worn out, oil pump

Reply to
The Merg

Makes me wonder if the oil pump lost its' prime...

Didn't you say the oil pressure was good to start with before you messed with anything? If the pump leaked down and lost the prime, it's shot. You can screw a mechanical guage into the hole where the sending unit mounts to check the actual pressure. Those electrical sending units are notorious for crapping out, so you likely find use for the inexpensive guage sooner or later.

Reply to
Will Honea

Reply to
The Merg

Reply to
The Merg

If the sensor is leaking it needs replaced anyway. This may fix your problem. As Will pointed out, you can rent or buy a mechanical gauge and a piece of hose to check the actual pressure that you are getting. I don't know a whole lot about the instrument panel wiring, but no the temperature gauge isn't supposed to peg when you are cranking.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

If you decide to sell it, let me know. ;-)

Carl

Reply to
Carl S

You com> If you decide to sell it, let me know. ;-)

Reply to
The Merg

The pump shouldn't have lost its prime, but you never know. If it did, like Will says it is probably shot. Cross your fingers and hope for a leaking sender unit, and the oil made it stop working.

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

For a cheap YJ, maybe. I have a place in Richmond I could take it to...

Carl

Reply to
Carl S

Reply to
The Merg

If you don't buy it, let me know and I will.

Carl

Reply to
Carl S

Reply to
The Merg

Hey guys, I used a mechanical gauge, it has pressure. I replaced the sensor, everything's back to normal - that is, as normal as can be with this thing. I don't know if I mentioned this, but at some point over the last couple of days working on it, I snapped what I think is a heater hose coupling. Completely shattered it. It's still running roughly - it starts up, runs fine for a few seconds, then wants to shut off unless I give it gas. I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs over the weekend. Where should I be looking? Reminder, it's a '92 XJ 4.0L

Reply to
The Merg

Reply to
The Merg

Yeah, the throttle body was removed and thoroughly cleaned, new gasket. I'm not entirely sure about this, but I think it's gotten worse since the throttle body was cleaned. But I've done so many other things since then, I can't really tie it to one thing that I've done.

I probably should have warmed it up, but I don't like the way it's running so I don't want to run it too long.

Earle Hort> Both. Warm up the engine next time, and then work the part out gently. The

Reply to
The Merg

Both. Warm up the engine next time, and then work the part out gently. The rubber grommet is probably hard as a rock too. Maybe heat will soften it up. Clean the throttle body and idle passage yet?

Earle

Reply to
Earle Horton

Did you clean the shaft on the Idle Air Control motor? You might try unplugging the IAC and see if it makes any difference. If not, that's your problem. When I first got my MJ I had idle problems that improved a little with each fix until a new O2 sensor cleared the last bit of roughness.

AH! just hit me - that sounds like what I got with a failing fuel pump - I was losing pressure after it started - but even with added throttle mine would die pretty quickly.

Reply to
Will Honea

You might want to describe carefully what parts you've busted, even if just by location and what they appear to be connected to.

As for old or cold, I would think it would need to be really cold to be that bad. Replace 'em.

The Merg proclaimed:

Reply to
Lon

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