poll: additives?

Dunno if this counts ...but gas-line antifreeze!!! When it gets to -30 to -40C up here, that shit is good stuff to use!!

chew on this a while.

I had a good experience with "RESTORE". The engine on my 96 xj was very noisey. With the engine ideling I poured a can in. Before I got it all in the engine instantly quited down. Unbelievable. It contains microscopic particles that are 40% lead, 60% copper and are bound by silver. Sounds like the same material bearings are made of.

JoBo

How much do you have to put in normally? wondering if you saw an increase in oil pressure at al!?

That's really an eye-opener! I've got 2 questions though: what about Valvoline Max Life (breaks the rule stated in the article that no oil companies do additives) Could there be something to it? Also, what about trick-shift for the transmission? Is it really any better?

Thanks, Matt

The report was written in 92, max-life is more recent. As to "restore", contains ground up rings and bearings that magically go where needed? It probably would as least raise oil pressure as the dense metals are harder to pump, and would tend to restrict flow in small spaces. All I know is that if an engine is messed up to the point where you may consider an additive as a repair, it's time for a rebuild.

There are a lot of other discussions about oil for motorcycles

(written in 94), the claim that there is more shearing in the transmission is somewhat valid, but the solution of more zinc isn't effective because of federal environmental limits, so they can't put in enough to make a difference, but "motorcycle oil" is far more expensive anyway. Oils with the "energy conserving" rating are friction modified, bad for wet clutches. My 76 Honda goldwing is a great test bed for oils, it has well over 100K miles, has 3 internal chains, transmission, clutch, and a finicky starter over-riding clutch all in the same pool of oil. I can tell by the sounds it makes that it needs an oil change. It gets quieter progressively with this procession of oils I have run, Quaker, Valvoline, Delo, Kendall, all in

20-50 grade. There is a huge difference in sound from Quaker to Kendall. I have gone backwards to verify, and the sound changes are consistant.

I did once manage to get a case of Swepco 306,

, which I think may be the best out there (used to use it when I worked full-time as a Benz Tech), but poor marketing and high prices ,keep it obscured and hard to find. I actually measured an increase of 2 mpg after the change. Their gear lube will work miracles with noisy BMW transmissions and diffs.

I'm a bit surprised that they didn't address molybdenum disulfide as an additive. I've used Dow Corning's Molykote(R) M for years as an additive in my engine oil. (And unlike Dupont, who don't endorse PTFE additives, Dow has their own line of MoS2 lubricants.)

I can't really tell about oil pressure as it's always in the 40-60 range, hot or cold. However we put a can in my son's 89 xj that has less miles and had a "nomal" amount of noise and besides less noise he's got just a tad bit more pressure but again his was not low eather. The can says it takes "up to 500 miles" to do it's thing. Both xj's seem to be running smoother under excelleration.

JoBo