problem with transfer case

Matthew,

I agree with Bill Hughes that a setscrew has backed out of a shifter fork. It happened to me once.

Check your linkage first though. The Dana 300 has two shifting fork shafts that stick out the front of the t-case. Be sure both have their connecting pins and that both move in and out.

If the linkage is ok then you'll have to look inside the t-case. Remove the skidplate, drain the oil from the t-case and remove it's bottom cover. Watch inside while some shifts the t-case. It's a simple gear system. By studying it some you'll realize what's supposed to move where and when.

If Bill is correct a setscrew will have backed out of a shifter fork and will most likely still be in the fork but loose.

Good luck and let us know what you find!

Burns

----- Original Message ----- From: "matthewf" Newsgroups: rec.autos.makers.jeep+willys Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 10:04 PM Subject: problem with transfer case

Check the front of the t-case first. You have a twin linkage there so you 'could' run a twin stick shifter. One of the pins/link rods controls front wheel or rear wheel drive, the other controls high or low or 2 WD.

Mike

matthewf wrote:

Thanks for the suggestions Gents. What I found when i dropped the skidplate is that the shift lever itself was NOT passing through the two 'ears' on the front bearing cap. It was on the passenger side outside.

The reason being that the hole in the shift lever where the shift shaft is supposed to go through, is too small for the shift shaft. So they stuck just the threaded end of the shift shaft through the hole (which fits) and got the nut on about two threads worth.

Really bizaar. The shift shaft is about a 16th larger than .5" dia. and it fits correctly (snuggly, no slop) in the holes in the front bearing cap.

The hole in shift lever itself is about a 16th smaller than .5" dia.-

So since the shift shaft fits, it looks like the shift lever itself is not the right one? and they twisted it so it would sit outside the ears, where the smaller dia. threads would fit through the hole. What a hack job.

So before I go in and look at internals I think I should get this linkage fixed up. looks like I need to get a new shifter for a 300 t-case that will hopefully have the right dia. hole?

Am I missing something here that would explain why these parts don't fit? Thanks

Yup, bushings.

Yours sound right.

The shifter is supposed to sit outside on the passenger side. The two forks the bolt goes through are supposed to have nylon bushings in them. These holes are about 1/16" bigger then the hole in the shifter.

The shifter then just sits on the end with a nut holding it on.

I am thinking that one of the pins has let go from the shifter to the two moving rods.

One rod controls front or rear wheel drive, the other rod controls 4 high or low or 2.

Mike

matthewf wrote:

The driver's side rod controls output to the rear drive shaft. When it's fully extended, it's in high range. When it's fully inserted, it's in low range. Between the two is neutral. The passenger's side rod controls output to the front drive shaft in a likewise manner. It sounds like your shifter isn't properly connected to your driver's side rod, leaving it in neutral. There are some funny little pieces to make the connections because the single shifter has to move the two rods somewhat independently. For example - in 2-hi, it must engage the rear in high range and leave the front in neutral. I'd recommend considering a twin stick kit. It just gives you 2 shifters to control the front and rear outputs yourself. All the parts are included, so it doesn't matter if you've lost or worn something out. What I like about it is that you can be offroad with your hubs locked in 2-lo. When you need 4-lo, you move a shifter instead of getting out to lock the hubs. When you're through the rough stuff, you move a shifter, you're back in 2-lo, leaving your hubs locked for the next obstacle. They're about $100 and are an easy installation by yourself. But, if you decide you'd rather fix what you have and you figure out you need replacements for some missing or worn out part, let me know. I may still have the parts I removed when I installed my twin stick. Good luck either way. I hope it's nothing more serious than that. TrailMarker.

I saw seven shift shafts by the sea shore with six sexy sheet slitters sailing the seven seas!

Hi guys - I'm back. I finally got around to dropping the skid plate and looking in the T-case.

Yes, it has been quite a while since my original question...I've since started a new job which took up my time and fortunately for me I have another car to use.

So to refresh this is a 82 cj7 I6, T5, 300transfer case.

Mark, Bill and MikeR where all exactly correct - the setscrew is still in there but completely loose.

So does anybody happen to know what size that setscrew is? it is an allen head screw right? and it will it be standard not metric?

second, is it worth trying back it all the way out and put some lock-tight on the threads before re-installing? (in other words does it come loose often?)

I have some 6inch long allen's that go into a nut-driver handle but none the right size. I'm hoping to go pick up the right size if anybody can point me in the right direction. They are nice and skinny and can get up into there. Is there a better tool I could be using for this?

Also, both manuals I have reference 'align the setscrew holes in the fork and rod' - is there a certain position the shift lever should be in while tightening?

Thank you very much for your previous (and future) answers - Matthew

Yes sir - well what is the world coming to? I dutifully went and bought sae stuff tonight after work. Funny thing is 5/32 (aka 3.97mm)is just a bit too loose and 3/16 (aka

Think I'll go pick up a 4mm tomm. just to try it. Thanks

Considering how close 5/32 is to 4mm I would have thought it would have fit. For instance, I find that a 3/4" socket works just fine for 19mm bolts and nuts commonly used on foreign car wheel lugs.

Perhaps the error has to be on the loose side for smaller fasteners. IOW, the 4mm socket will work on a 5/32 bolt but not the other way around?

-Fred W