Rear Seal / Oil Pan

retainer.

The factory manual recommends an anerobic sealer, Loctite 515.

the bearing and the cap.>

If you over do it it may, that's why DC recommends the anerobic sealer.

RTV to the rear oil pan seal when I reinstall?>

Forget the old four-piece kit, get the new, grey one-piece pan gasket. Much easier to install and will seal much better than the old style.

to the seal.... What would you folks recommend?>

That works fine, however hi-temp grease works better.

If you follow the directions, you will get it.

I prefer the one piece pan gasket.

Then when you have it all back together and it still leaks out on the ground, go up top and fix the leaky valve cover.... ;-)

Mike

Jeepster wrote:

On the ones I do, I use the soap and oil on the seal and have had good luck with them. The tabs or end wings on the seal also have to have RTV on both sides of them. The cap needs it out at the edges on the angled part

The trick is to get the pan and block super clean. Acetone works well or brake cleaner for this. One fingerprint and the buggers will leak.

If using the cork, I use a thin skim of RTV silicone on both sides. I think I even did that on my one piece I have in there now. No leaks anyway. :-)

looking at your pan, I recommend RTV no matter what gasket. It fills in the dents.

Then one big one a lot of folks forget is that RTV takes 24 hours to cure. If you put oil in it or start it up before then, it likely will leak.

Mike

Jeepster wrote:

The inspection plate is a small plate made of sheet metal that is between the oil pan and the bottom portion of the bell housing. It should have 4 bolts to hold it on. It could be held by two bolts and two well-placed ears, but I think they used four bolts. The CJs get four bolts, I assume the YJs get treated the same.

Which brings me to something I've always wondered: When you take that inspection plate off, what can you inspect? There's not a lot mechanical, adjustable or inspectable going on on the forward side of the flywheel.

Me, I'm thinking that is is a fancy way of saying "dust shield", but I could be wrong.

You 'really' don't want to go and break the new glue seal!!!!

Once you tighten the bolts, you can't breath on it until it cures.

If you turn the bolts again, you will just tear open the fresh seal and it will leak like a sieve.

Mike

Jeepster wrote:

The factory service manual for my 86 CJ says to use anaerobic sealant, not rtv.

Use the one piece rubber gasket and put in on DRY. Make sure the oil pan and block are really clean -- use a wire wheel if you have to. Make sure the oil pan gasket seats on the back of the rear main cap.

Use any soap you like, just be careful not to tear the new seal.

The factory manual recommends you make 6 slotted head studs out of bolts to install in the bolt holes around the sides of the pan. You slip the gasket over 'em and they hold it in place until you slip on the pan. These seemed like PITA to make, so I went to the hardware store and got 6 sloted head studs of the right size, worked like charm.

Well I might have got lucky :) I topped it up with oil today and went for a 1 hour drive around town.... no one drop of oil has leaked out. Should be good for a few months now I hope. :)

Thanks for all the suggesti>It's not a matter of still being soft, it has more to do with the "skinning"

You can look at the edge of the clutch disc to see how much material is remaining. Kind of like the way you might check the remaining material on the brake shoes or pads.