Oil Pan Gasket replacement

Humm...

Do you know for sure that it's the oil pan that's leaking and not the dread front crank seal?

I'd hate to see you spend a lot of time on the oil pan and not fix the problem.

Hi Jim, Yes, the oil pan is definately leaking, but is it the only leak? No I don't think so. I know the valve cover seals are just slightly leaking. How big of a deal is it to replace the front crank seal? Is this behind the timing belt covers? It's almost time to replace the timing belt again. I was going to replace the tensioner, oil pump seal and water pump while I was in there. Do you know if the main seal is there too? If it is it sounds like it would be easier to replace than the rear main seal, I bet you have to drop the transmission to get at that. Any help is aprreciated.

-Nick

Permatex Red sure won't hurt you. Here is the deal on it. Take *NEW* gasket and lightly (I MEAN LIGHTLY) spread the Permatex red on both sides of the gasket. Wipe down the area on both the block and pan.Clean them with carb cleaner spray (not the foamy shit).You want to be absolutely sure BOTH surfaces have no pieces of the old gasket left on them. The permatex will fill in any scratches you made while cleaning off the old gasket. After the permatex becomes sticky, use a few bolts thru the pan as guide pins, make sure the gasket is positioned correctly.Remove the bolts.Lift the pan into place and insert about 4 bolts as far apart as you can.Do not tighten ANY of the bolts, until ALL bolts are place.After they are all started, finger tighten all of them, watching the gasket to make sure it stays in place.Snug them down in a crisscross pattern.USE A GOD DAMN TORQUE WRENCH!!! No exceptions! If this is done correctly, this will never leak again.I have glued dirtbike engines together with this shit.....absolutely amazing stuff.

RTV.....I don't think so.While it can take high temps..it takes forever to set up, and it doesn't fill in or get as sticky as Permatex.

Here's my long post on the subject:

Have you gunked and pressure washed the pan to find the source of the leak? The oil seal looks just like a pan leak unless you get everything very clean and dry then watch for the oil.

-jim

Jim, No I haven't done that, that's a good idea. It looks like it's leaking right at the flange, but I suppose a leak higher up will do just as you say. I really don't want to tackle the rear seal. I'm very much hoping it is the pan (I hope it's not wishful thinking). It is possible to really ID a seal leak vs oil pan leak, externally? I figured I might have to go at it by trial and error, and I was going to start with the oil pan. I'll get to the front crank seal when I do the timing belt which may be in the next week or two. I just can't stand the burnt oil/rubber smell when I'm stopped, and the mess I making on my driveway. Not to mention the polluting I'm doing.

-Nick

Sorry I wasn't clear. The rear seal rarely gives trouble. I was talking about the front seal.

Changing it isn't a 15 minute job, but it's way easier than pulling the engine.

Clean everything off. I used gunk followed by a pressure wash then get under the car with a flashlight and see that everything is dry. Check again the next day and you should know for sure where it's coming from. No need to pull the pan if that's not the problem.

It is very unlikely that the Oil pan gasket is leaking. The oil pan is glued and as far as i remember it does not have a gasket.

Yes, I would recommend the permatex anytime. Cork gaskets normally lead to bend> Hi ,

The pan has been re-glued w/ permatex. I did see one spot at the back that looked like a possible sourse of a small leak. The oil pan wasn't glued on very well, it took just a small rap with lead shot mallet for it to part from the block. I really thought it would take more effort. It does look like a front seal is leaking too, as I could see some oil at the bottom of the time belt covers. That will be my next area to work on. Thanks

-Nick