removing or relocating emergency brake handle

Hi, Just for the record there is only a parking break. Even in the owners manual-no emergency brake. ONLY A PARKING BRAKE! Emergency brake was a term used for older cars when all around DRUM Brakes were in use. The only name is parking brake.Used to keep the vehicles in 1 position. Not for stunt driving. Just wanted to correct you . Have sence,patience,and self-restrain,and no mischief will come.

And we all know the owners manual is the tome of all knowledge.

Your caps key is stuck.

Got a news flash, those rear discs have drums inside them.

It's called a parking brake for legal reasons. When it was called an emergency brake the mfg could get sued should it not stop a runaway vehicle.

Are you a stunt-driver? Are you sure about that? The eBrake is used in defensive driving. Research a maneuver called the J-turn. Done correctly it allows one to get out of bad situations, done poorly it can flip your vehicle or brake things.

But I like mischief.

I had one master cylinder blow out totally in my GMC pickup at the start of a 10 mile down hill coming off a mountain in BC Canada.

If I had of figured I only had a 'parking' brake left, I would be dead right now.

I dropped the tranny down to second, then low and applied the 'emergency' brake slowly in pulses while doing it so I didn't lock it up and managed to make the bottom of the hill and pull into the garage there.

I owned several Volvos and a British Rover all with 4 wheel disk brakes. Both had dual brake lines and dual pistons in the calipers so if one hydraulic system failed there was a second independent hydraulic system, not just a split front/back system like most vehicles.

'Both' had a drum brake inside the rear that was cable actuated and was the 'emergency' brake in case of catastrophic failure of the MC.

I had to do an emergency stop once in the Rover to avoid an elk and both front rotors shattered. I had no pedal. The 'emergency' drum brake once again saved my ass.

I had an old Austin Mini, and same deal, the MC blew out and the 'emergency' brake got me off the road safely.

Jeep has a recall on the front rotors for a bunch of years of Jeeps up here in the rust belt because of the same thing that happened to my Rover, the disks corrode where they attach to the hub and a hard slam on the brakes can allow the disk to separate from the hub, bingo no brake pedal....

All BS aside, you 'really' want that cable brake to work as an 'emergency' brake and nothing else matters.

If you don't already know how to use it as an emergency brake, then for your own sake and anyone else in your way you might kill, it is time to learn.

Go into a big parking lot and do 30 or 40 mph then use it to stop. If a foot brake, keep your hand on the release and pulse the pedal to come to a stop. If a hand brake keep your thumb on the button and do the same.

Learning how to do that 'safely' can save your life!

I was 'taught' that in The Drivers Education Program back in 1973 for the above stated reasons.

This is a Jeep group, we tend to drive old Jeeps, Master Cylinders fail on old vehicles or even the new ones can have rotors fall off due to a Chrysler defect causing no break pedal too.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

mctiger wrote:

people do not take the time to read it...

rear/disk(auxiliary drum) parking brake system....

that? As for that one-----------yes How about you professor?

you????????????

---(Bell-Mouthed drum). You are just a parts changer by nature.

Have sence,patience,and self-restrain,and no mischief will come.

Try that again, but next time properly format your post.

Raced SCCA for five years and also taken offensive/defensive driving courses as part of the requirements for where my job sends me.

As for bell mouthed, that's an uneven (sloped) wear pattern on drums.

Step away from the glue.

Does this poster even know how to properly format a response?

It's been known to go from -40f to +40f in a day and back again -- based on chinook winds, so massive thaw/freeze cycles, and still never ever had a problem on any well maintained vehicle.

Yes -I do know how to post a message just for you. Jerk! Have sence,patience,and self-restrain,and no mischief will come.

I feel nothing but pitty for you.I am also surprised that you can only use bad language on this news group. I guess you only stay home on Sunday's. As a technician,I can not use improper terms.(terms used for diagnostics). Are you a auto tech?Or a shade tree mechanic on the week ends? I am glad you do not do repairs in my city. Good luck in your adventures. Have sence,patience,and self-restrain,and no mischief will come.

Chinook winds tend to dry things out. In the northeast where I grew up there wasn't much wind (except for hurricane season) but lots and lots of moisture, plus salt on the roads. Unless you took off your parking brake cables every couple years to soak them in oil and work them loose they would become solid like a rusted piece of rebar pretty fast. Massachusetts had a safety inspection that included parking brake operation where they had to stall the engine in gear if standard or keep the car from moving if automatic. They didn't inspect any part of the foot brake system though. I never could figure that one out.

Earle

amen to that! big ice storms here in 96, had the parking break freeze in place, and I was backed into a shed at the time. called around and the shops gave me 3 possible ways to fix it.

1 - pop it hard in reverse and see if the ice chunk breaks (and try not to go thru the back of the shed).

2 - take the wheels off and use a hairdryer to melt out the ice.

3 - wait until it thaws (that was like 3 weeks it turns out).

I tried number 1, and it did break the ice and just barely missed going thru the rear wall. I was able to get the brake off and move the rig again - the rig wouldnt move at all fowards before I did this. Thats the LAST time I used the parking/emergency brake in the winter.

Wow, that's a pretty amusing combination of statements!

It only takes once eh?

I have seen it way too many times.

The reverse shot might have worked for 'snowboardripper' too because after a couple hard forward reverse brake locks and a bunch of pumping on the brake lever it let loose.

Mike

jbjeep wrote:

What can I say no one I know has ever had that problem nor have I.. I've had locks ice solid, and doors iced shut now and then either after a heavy wet snow fall and a massive tempurature drop or a quick thaw-freeze cycle .. never once any brake problems.. And those problems can be easly avoided by simply making sure the locks are properly lubricated and door weather stripping is coated in a silicon spray prior to winter..

I've live and have always lived and worked extensivly throughout the foothills and mountains in both Alberta and BC, and spent sometime up in the NWT, and the far northern end of Alberta..

Dry winds don't really mean dry conditions.. If there's snow on the ground with a warm dry wind -- hate to say it's wetter and soggier then a normal rain fail -- as the water collects on the ground and doesn't really run off that well..

In the PNW soap on the weather stripping works really well. Just like you rub wax on a dry zipper, bar soap rubbed on dry weather stripping will keep it from freezing to the metal part of the Jeep. YMMV.

Hi, I know about children as you stated.You do not realize maybe women reading this group?I am a mechanic by trade and only was pointing out a fact to you. Maybe the child that you are can not accept any corrections in your statements. Only one thing comes to mind when you are repairing a car-Step away from the vehicles! Also by the way I am over 39 yrs old.I also am engaged in a battle of wits with a person half armed.. I hope the people in this group realize that you are not a mechanic-but a electrician. Have a great day! Have sence,patience,and self-restrain,and no mischief will come.