Rust & Rot

A while back I posted a few questions regarding frame rot & rust. There were several suggestions, which I appreciated! Last weekend I began the process of stripping everything down to the frame. Today the frame is ready for repair and I'll be able to start on the body work.

I'm trying to justify the purchase of a mig welder, but am not having much luck! A neighbor is going to take care of the frame for me, but he isn't sure if his welder will work on body panels.

I'm hoping to wrap this project up within two months at the most.

I'm not exactly sure what it will take to put it all back together, but I'm having fun!

Doug

Reply to
Doug
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Get the mig, I did my CJ frame a couple months ago, but since then have used the welder a lot, been through 2 rolls of wire on other stuff.

Reply to
Greg

If you're restoring a vehicle without a MIG welder, you'll spend almost as much paying someone else to do the welding as you'll spend on a light duty welder. Once you own a MIG and get comfortable using it, you'll find all kinds of stuff to use it on. MIG's are what body shops often use on sheet metal and most muffler shops use them these days since they're cheap and so easy to use. A lot of the younger guys you see in chain-muffler shops were hired with no more welding experience than high school shop class - that's how easy they are to use.

If you're buying one, look for one that you can hook up gas to. Flux core (gasless) is OK for frame work, but looks a little messy on body panels. Gas with solid wire in a MIG is the best way to weld body panels in my book. CO2 is good to start, CO2/Argon mix is better (but costs more).

I bought my first MIG (an older Century) on eBay last year and I'm already looking at upgrading to a more fully featured one. I've welded for years with Oxy/Acy and my big Lincoln arc, but the MIG is fast becoming the only thing I use. It works great, I just want a bigger/better/newer/fancier one now. If you're in or near Wisconsin, I'll give you a good deal on a Century MIG. It'll weigh about 100# in a crate.

Cheers, - Jeff G

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Reply to
Bubba Kahuna (only 1 'J' in my address)

If you're like most of us, it'll take about 2 1/2 years.

Reply to
Lee Ayrton

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

How do you do that without warping the sheet metal (I haven't tried my hand at that yet). Keep making lots of well-seperated short beads, until the seam is joined, then grind it all flat?

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later,

Reply to
Lee Ayrton

Lee Ayrton did pass the time by typing:

You got it.

Lots of real short beads, not all in the same area.

Nate has some training vids out there somewhere. Don't remember if one of them covered that or not. You can also read on the Miller website.

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I'm eyeballing the Millermatic 135 as a good all-round body and light tube mig.

Reply to
DougW

yep I try to 'stitch' the welds (bunch of little welds skipping around the metal) to make it almost one solid weld, and grind it frequently between and after welds. You don't want the metal getting too hot. I am definitely NOT a professional body man, so if I can do it you can also! ;-) I recently purchased an auto darkening welding helmet to go with my Lincoln

110V mig welder. I also love my metal nibbler and muffler cutoff tool too! I have to try one of those tools that makes a lip or lap joint on the sheet metal in the near future.
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later, dave AKA vwdoc1

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Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Tool envy!

I don't weld often enough (or well enough) to justify buying an auto-darkening helmet. Although... I just spotted on in the Harbor Freight catalogue for fifty bucks. Hmmmm.

I've wanted one of those flanging tools for a while, but haven't found a reason to buy one yet. I have seen the result and it looked great in that guy's hand, but I have to wonder how easy it is to ripple a panel with one of those.

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Reply to
Lee Ayrton

The auto darkening helmet is an absolute must. I wish I had purchased one early in my never ending project. My weld quality went way up. Mine is a relatively cheap (~$60 US) Hobart, and it works great.

As for the punch-flange tool, they are also well worth the money. Most have a punch head opposite the flange die. When you step the panel it actually can help to straighten and stiffen a panel. You punch the mating panel and have a neat little hole to tack thru. I spent a little extra and got a pistol grip style that is more ergonomic.

YMMV.

Reply to
Tom Needham

I second the auto darkening helmet as being a must for the amateur welder. I've got one of the cheepy Harbor Freight models. Because I only weld once in a while I'm always out of practice, being able to stop and easily see what the weld looks like makes all the difference.

Dean

Reply to
Dean

Well then you NEED that auto-darkening helmet! I bought mine from Harbor Freight when it cost more than $50, but it makes welding much much easier for the once-in-awhile welder like me. I have used a stick welder to weld body panels together, but it could easily and quickly burn through the metal. Mig is the way to make it easier for you.

Yep definitely tool envy. I just like tools that make life easier and better. Just think that you don't have to pay someone $60+ per hour to weld things for you when you can own your own welder for $300 or so. And do it at your leisure. ;-)

And I hate rust and rot and am still looking for a good product that neutralizes the rust. I tried sandblasting and using POR-15, but it is not a sure thing. I would want to eliminate the rust chemically. I have used Navel Jelly but I forgot if it worked well. lol Maybe it did. 8^)

later, dave AKA vwdoc1

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

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