slip yoke eliminator...brand? recommendations? install help?

I'm planning to replace my rear driveshaft w/a cv shaft soon, and get the SYE installed on the t-case at same time. (I'm really overdue with this conversion and driveshaft replacement; I've had a 4" lift and 1" t-case drop installed for over a year now, and need to finally replace that u-joint rear!)

My questions to the group are:

1) What brand/model/whatever of SYE kit do you recommend? Does it matter? This is with a stock 1997 TJ t-case.

2) I'm thinking about installing the SYE kit myself. I've never cracked a t-case (or tranny or anything...) before, but I'm pretty confident, and gutsy about attempting new challenges like this. However, I want to make sure that if I choose to do this myself rather than pay a shop, that I know what I'm getting myself into. So, please let me know of any pitfalls or tips/tricks I might find useful when performing a SYE kit install on my t-case. And, if there are any special tools that I'll want to have on hand or buy for the install, I'd appreciate a heads-up in that department as well. I've looked through the web and found a couple of reports on performing this type of install, but most of them seem to assume you know what you're doing with an open t-case (and you now how to remove it, for that matter). If anyone knows of some good guides/instructions for this sort of thing, feel free to point me to them! (Bill...;-) I just know you got some links for this!)

Thanks!

/Bob

Hmm...maybe one day I'll learn enough that I can maybe ANSWER a question or two on this forum, rather than just asking them...yeah right! lol

Reply to
Bob
Loading thread data ...

i used the black diamond kit that replaces the mainshaft. here is a write up of a similar install.

formatting link
said, if i had it to do over again i think i would use the RE "hack &tap" setup which is cheaper, much easier to install and regardless of claimsto the contrary, i believe it to be just as strong.

my install was fast and easy except for one part. keeping the oil pick up tube connected was a _bitch_ during reassembly. go with the "hack & tap" and be done with it. no point in making it harder than it has to be. i know of _no_ advantage to using the main shaft replacement system.

Reply to
Nathan W. Collier

formatting link
Look at the two mainshafts...look at the difference in thickness south of the syncro bearing surfaces. That's the advantage.

  • * * Matt Macchiarolo
    formatting link
    formatting link
    formatting link
Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

The main advantage of the shaft replacement type is a stronger and shorter output shaft. Actually, the "hack and tap" system can work if you do it carefully. One thing you don't want to do and that is to drill too deep. If you do, you get into the narrow part of the shaft and really weaken it. If you do the type of wheeling that breaks things, get the HD shaft replacement type of SYE. Otherwise, the "hack and tap" system can save you some bucks (you still have to get a new driveshaft, though.)

Reply to
TJim

Tom Woods recommended the JB Conversions kit, which uses a stronger output shaft and a splined output yoke. Much stronger than the other main type, which uses a shortened & tapped stock output shaft. FWIW, I installed a Currie kit on my '94 YJ which just uses a shortened & tapped stock shaft & flange plate to accept a CV shaft. It held up fine with the stock drivetrain. I replaced the entire t-case with an AtlasII when I upgraded the axles & added lockers.

As for doing it yourself, and bearing in mind I am a former ASE Master Tech who's done many transmission repairs before I attempted this, it's not really a very complicated operation. FWIW, I did mine by splitting the case in the vehicle, rather than pulling the whole unit out of the vehicle. Hardest part of the entire operation was getting the front output yoke's nut loose, but once that was accomplished the replacement went very easily. Now, the JB Conversions type kits are a bit more complex and I'm not sure you could do it the way I just described. Once Installed, adding on the new rear driveshaft is a piece 'o cake.

Reply to
Gerald G. McGeorge

And then there are those of us stuck with the np242 transfer case. KH

Reply to
Kevin in San Diego

theres no real world advantage to having a stronger shaft. the existing shaft is more than adequate in its original length, and shortening it only makes it stronger. in _all_ my years of tinkering ive _never_ heard of anyone ever busting a stock 231 main shaft.

Reply to
Nathan W. Collier

in theory thats great but thats not a real world advantage unless the stock mainshaft is prone to breakage. stock mainshafts dont break as it is, theres nothing gained by doing the mainshaft replacement.

Reply to
Nathan W. Collier

why is shaft strength relevant when the stock shaft will never break?

Reply to
Nathan W. Collier

Never say "never". ;-) Sure, it's easy for you to say. You don't even *have* a slip yoke! :-) (I'm just jealous...)

Reply to
TJim

while true, experience tells me that if there ever is a bind up that serious, the chain or drive gears are gonna give long before the mainshaft.

Reply to
Nathan W. Collier

Well, yes and no. I have seen reports of people breaking the "hack and tap" due to too deep a hole drilled, weakening the shaft at the narrow point. That's all. I suppose, if you beef up everything else, you will break the weakest link if you try hard enough. Actually I will probably get the "hack and tap" for my TJ, though.

Reply to
TJim

Reply to
twaldron

...actually, so do I. Just don't tell Nathan... ;-)

Reply to
TJim

improper installation doesnt count. :-)

Reply to
Nathan W. Collier

Hey, I'm arguing here! Don't confuse me with logic! ;-)

Reply to
TJim

ha ha...definately a new one!

Reply to
Nathan W. Collier

Hmm, there one someone here about a year ago who did just that..can't remember who, but his mainshaft split right at that narrow section.

  • * * Matt Macchiarolo
    formatting link
    formatting link
    formatting link
Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

improper installations (drilling into the narrow section when the instructions are clear on that) does not count.

Reply to
Nathan W. Collier

  • * * Matt Macchiarolo
    formatting link
    formatting link
    formatting link
Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.