Spring issues

Are you removing your front sway bar for off road?

My CJ7 with old soft springs in front arched 2.5" and new rear 2.5" ones will umm, make some interesting moves when twisting up, can have a back tire hanging 3' in the air sometimes.

I have been told if I undo the sway bar it will help some, haven't bothered trying to undo those 1986 bolts.... Then it needs bushings and likely new links, etc. Some day I will do that 'project'...

But on our trails, even TJ's look like a dog having a piss now and then.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

cj573cj5 wrote:

What year is your CJ? My '73 has the narrow springs. Did you fab your Wrangler spring conversion or buy it? I thought about Wrangler springs on mine but wondered what is done to accommodate the longer springs. Does the frame have to be extended some to keep the axil in the same place? I've also looked at the revolver shackles. What do they do on the road? Is there danger in them "unfolding" causing unexpected body lean?

I have been told you need to move the spring mounts on the frame for the wrangler springs. You also have to change the plate on the axle tubes I think.

I thought about them when I did my frame up rebuild and needed a rear set to replace some broken leafs, but then thought about it and figured I didn't want to lower my Jeep, I wanted to lift it, so why go with a spring pack that is flat to start with like the wrangler one.

Stock CJ springs can run 31-32" tires without hitting, stock wrangler springs can only run 235's or 29.5" tires without issues.

I went with a stock set of CJ springs and had the truck spring shop put a 2.5" arch in them with a heavier 'keeper' spring replacing the first leaf below the main one with the bushings.

They then arched my old front ones to match and put the keeper in.

I bounce the crap out of mine and the arched springs have held up great.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

cj573cj5 wrote:

You would need a long shackle not to wrap wouldn't you?

Then you would need wedges to set the axles back straight or the alignment will never set. Same for the driveshaft angle.

Mike

"Gerald G. McGeorge" wrote:

No, the kits use stock length YJ shackles which are just a bit longer than stock CJ units and their effect on pinion/caster angles is minimal.

I had to buy new plates for the U-bolts, and new frame shackle mounts for the front springs. My wrangler springs came with wrangler shackles which I used until I put revolvers on the back and Currie tow shacles on the front. Otherwise, there was no special mods needed.

Also My jeep didn't go any lower with the wrangler springs. They are softer but have more arch to compensate.

articulation

I want to respond by asking, do you still have your axle and spring bumper stops in place? I would imagine you do since you don't want to harm your brake hoses et al. Do you have axle and spring bumper stops? I have a 94 YJ and I have them.

Okay that answers my question. The bump stops are basically for protecting the brake cables, axle hoses, even the wheel housing assembly. I currently have a disfigured RR wheel housing assembly because the PO must have hit a hole and the wheel got stuffed into the housing so deep it rode on the rear part and bent it in. I have to now figure a way to just replace that part instead of buying a whole new wheel housing assembly. I'm thinking of chiseling it out, bending it flat and then tacking it back on or using something like POR15 sealer. That stuff is real strong and works real well.