What's the difference between a 4" Lift and a 2 1/2" lift with 1 1/2" Shackles?

If you have been reading anything here you would know the problem with shackle lifts.

From a previous post: "On the front, it throws your steering (caster) way off. It can affect your pinion angles on the front and the back. Longer shackle tend to make for more sway, the springs may shift from sided to side. It also reduces your departure and approach angles... the extended rear shackle is usually what drags (or hangs up) coming off the rocks."

Go with the 4" suspension lift. Alternate and acceptable is a combination suspension and body lift (no more that 2" on the body).

-- JimG

80' CJ-7 258 CID 35" BFG MT on 15x10 Centerlines D44 Rear, Dana 30 Front. SOA 4.56 Gears, LockRight F&R Dana 300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn X8000i w/ dual batteries

Thanks guys,

This is for a CJ7, 83 year.

Thanks for the responses. I get the picture and understand.

Thanks again,

You said shackle lift so that means CJ or YJ, not TJ. It would help to know which one we are talking about as well as what kind of driving you do.

A shackle lift that gave you a true 2-1/2" of lift would mean that the new shackles were 5" longer than the stock ones. These will stress the mounts and collapse sideways. Not to mention the squirrely handling in the meantime because of the change in caster. (And Jeeps are not great in that department to start with!) In other words "NO!" The reinforced shackles that gie you an inch or so of lift are about all that you can safely use, even these are not reccomended.

A spring lift will lift the frame and body up the full 4", lots more tire clearance, lots more ground clearance under the middle. Downside is that you still have to clear the axle pumkins (bigger tires) and the driveshaft angle gets pretty wierd. The high angle on the u-joints will cause early and regular u-joint failure, may need a slip yoke eliminator with CV style U-joints.

While we are talking your other choice is a body lift. More tire cleanance, no change in frame clearance. They come in 1" (easy),

2" (ok but you will need some tweak> What would be the difference in quality, ride, performance and just plain

You would prefer the short shackels that you will use with the 4" lift over the longer shackles that you will use with the 2.5" lift. The shackles are just another flex point that you should try to avoid if you can.

Can you use a 1" body lift on a 98 TJ (manual w/AC) ? Cost and suppliers please. Thanks

Yes.

Try places like 4WheelParts Wholesalers and Off Road Warehouse. I don't know the price off the top of my head, but I would think that $75 ought to cover the entire tab.

I am planing on going with a belly up kit for my TJ. is it better to get a

1" or 2" body lift??

Jeremy

1" should be all you need. You will probably want to get the transfer case shifter pivot bracket kit (I think quadratec has them). You will probably need a SYE, also. The belly up kit increases your drive line angle considerably. The 1" taller motor mounts might not hurt, too. While you're at it, get a Kilby gas tank skid plate and raise your gas tank up a bit, too. :-)

(You can't change "one thing".)

(I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong.)

Too true, always a work in progress. I am also going with a 1" coil spacers for now then later I will get a 3" lift kit for a total of 5" of lift :)

BTW I saw a SYE on RubiconExpress.com that taped into the origional output shaft of the transfer case.

that strong enough for easy to moderate crawling or is it much morerecomended to get the HD version that also reduces the driveline angle?? Jeremy