What springs do I have.....

been sittin' in it for a long time?????

Thanks Mike --

Yep, it does lean to the drivers side. I look through the archives to see if I can find the last thread.

When I measure the rear shackle - the left side is just about an inch lower than the right side. I have a tough time believing this is 'normal' though. In fact, I think it may be getting worse over time as I do not remember it leaning this much in the past - although I have not measured it in the past either.

John

85 CJ7 258 w/ Howell inj T-18 with AMC20 4:10s, Somer Bros one piece & Detroit lockers in rear Trak Lok in with stock front end 4in spring lift (I think), extended greasable shackles with Rancho 9000s BFG Muds 33s

Yup, that is my thought too.

Sounds like one side has lost it's arch, a spring shop can fix that easy.

Go to a place that does big trucks, they like playing with the 'little' trucks and usually give great prices.

I had a truck shop arch new stock springs 2.5" for my rear and re-arch my 1986 front springs to match. They added a 'keeper' spring by replacing the top pack spring with a heavier one already temper arched in the right lift and it has all stayed stable for over two years of serious bouncing.

Cost me about $400.00 total.

A 4x4 specialty shop will likely be double the price.

Mike

"L.W.(ßill) Hughes III" wrote:

Just to let you know, the brand spring you have is a Trailmaster. They discontinued that number a few years back, and replaced it with a different design. Recently they sold to another company(ceo ala steelhorse). Hope this helps, good luck.

Best,

Don

One other thing to think of John. I had the same problem. About 3/4" or more difference between drivers side and passengers side. I too thought it was the springs. I took careful measurements of the springs, especially the distance from the frame to the top of the axle. I found out the problem wasn't in the springs at all. The frame was cracked and sagging on the drivers side.It was REAL hard to find too. Never saw it until I had the fenders, grill and radiator off for a complete engine rebuild. There they were, cracks near the front shock tower, right behind the first body mount on the driver's side and all along the top of the frame where the cold weld never joined the two c-channels between the aforementioned cracks. The fix was to weld up the cracks (if you don't know exactly what your doing have a body shop do it for you or you can really screw it up) and use reinforcement plates along the frame rails. I got my plates from M.O.R.E.. They clamped right in place and all the holes lined right up, real easy job. Now my frame is stronger than factory and my jeep doesn't look like its been carrying a 600 pound driver. Now someone out there is going to say that it will take out the "flex" in the frame. I say that's crap and most frame pros will agree. Suspension is for flex, the frame is supposed to be stiff, so it doesn't crack and break and so it holds everything where its supposed to be. Rich

"John B. Parisi" wrote in message news:cYd%a.151282$o%2.64851@sccrnsc02...

I thought about going the re-arc route but have heard the re-arc typically doesn't last very long and you end up in the same boat in a short amount of time....

I had my front stock 86 springs re-arched to match my new 2.5" lift ones and the arch has stayed stable.

They did replace the top of the pack spring with a 'keeper' leaf, a heavier one already temper arched vs bent.

Mike

"John B. Parisi" wrote: