What would anyone recomend for a front locker for a 95 YJ dana 30, cheap, I put an Ox in my CJ front end, love it, but daughter can't afford a grand for that, she has a detroit in the ford 9" rear end by the way.
I would want a selectable in the front, but the only selectables I know of are Ox and ARB, both $$. Powertrax lockright is a great lunchbox locker, and cheap, too.
And a very poor choice for a front drive axle. It can only drive both ties at same speed or drive one wheel coasting the other under little or no power. It will increase turning radius in 4x4 and it will send a LOT or torque whip back through steering wheel in tight turns (because Ujoint are not constant velocity). You want a selectable locker or a True Trax gear based LSD up there (the True Trax plays well in front drive axle and Oshkosh snow plow trucks have been using gear based LSD for about 30 years now and there is nothing light duty about them)
Workable solutions are Warn locking hubs for the front, over a grand I think, or something like an Ox. If you can psyche yourself into believing that the permanently locked driver's side hub won't affect anything, you might try something cheaper.
First, you're an idiot snojob. Second, no one invited your bullshit here. Third, if you spent any quality time in this group at all, you'd know that Bill was kidding. So, go back to your hole.
You should stick to your J10 driveway snow plow SnoMan, we actually drive our 4x4's off and 'on' the road in this group.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
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Once a troll always a troll as you just cannot get it out of your blood can you. You may think your are being cute but others can see you for what you are. Some come here looking for advise and some like you come here to make jokes and act like a troll. Knock yourself out!
Typical troll again because when you use the front axle under power it has to have wheels turn at a different speeds in a turn due to physics involved and then there is the fact that Ujoints are not constant velocity in a turn so they complicate this further and the net result is nasty driveline bind and wheels having to skid in a turn and loose traction and reduce truning radius. (not to mention strain of front axles, joints and stub shafts) You would know this if you really knew about the physics involved but your knowledge is very limited here and push button 4x4 drive was made just for "people" like you. I tell it like it is not like you want to believe it is. Listen and read sometimes and you might just learn something.
I agree that the lunchbox is a poor choice for a front axle when it comes to the ability to turn the jeep while in 4x4. However, if someone is looking for a cheap way to get locked up in the front, it works great. Sometimes you must compromise to get a trail-capable machine that you can afford.
Don't say I didn't warn you. The folks in this group won't put up with your ridiculous crap nearly as long as the ones in the Ford Trucks group did before they see you for what you are. Can you not take a hint?
No one answered my question about the front axle disconnect and the YJ's solid hub. If you put a locker in front, does it free-wheel, or does it continuously crank the drive shaft and front axle? Anyone care to venture whether it affects handling or not?
If I have my front hubs locked in my CJ7, it turns the driveshaft and makes the steering feel 'slightly heavier' when in 2 wheel drive.
In my case I have an open diff so I would only be spinning one axle side and the driveshaft which should feel 'exactly' the same as a YJ locked with the axle disconnected in the middle which would only spin one axle side and the driveshaft when in 2 wheel drive.
At least the YJ owner wouldn't have to get out to lock her up, just pull the shifter which turns on the 'stock' vacuum motor which locks it up.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > No one answered my question about the front axle disconnect and the YJ's
The background: A CJ with the hubs unlocked will have no torque transmitted to the drivetrain. A TJ has no unlocking hub so it continuously drives the front driveshaft with both wheels contributing to the drive. Makes the wheel feel 'heavy', gives it a slight understeer.
The YJ is a strange compromise: when in 2wd, the right outer shaft is unlocked so the right wheel has no drivetrain drag (except the outer U-joint if you are turning). The left side is driving the left spider gear, the two spider idlers, and the right spider at full speed in reverse. As long as the spider running freely, there is not enough torque to reverse load the ring and spin the pinion/front drive shaft. The result is that there is a minor but constant drag on the left that is not matched on the right side. It will 'pull' to the left. Given the kluges in the YJ front suspension, it would be hard to notice the minor pull.
Add> No one answered my question about the front axle disconnect and the YJ's
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