:0) Finally! - Morph gets painted

Just got the wheels and roof to do.

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...next time someone suggests stripping the 12 layers of Camo from a 101 I hope they have a high pain threshold ;0)

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D
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"Lee_D" wrote

Spray or brush/roller?

Reply to
Bob Hobden

Spray this time. Percy was rollered. I think I'll roller the roof if only to save the masking up.

Percys rollered Piccys are here...

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the finish On Percy was in my opinion far better. Though I have sprayed matt cellulose this time but I've yet to get a finish which doesn't need work. Doesn't help spraying in the great outdoors either.

The Range Rover which I sprayed a few weeks back polished up well. I've yet to upload my piccys. Will do soon.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

Erm...nope. I;ve had my madk on nearly 9 hours today give or take a munchie break. Not nice.

Indeed.. can't believe how much smaller it looks painted.... almost miniscule ;0)

They made a cracking start... but left the finer detail to me.

Nah!

Do it.. It didn't mind the overspray. I'd be tempted to seal it first then paint it with your colour. When I say seal I mean something rubbery to keep out the moisture.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

Looking good! want to come round and do mine while youre at it? :)

I can now say that mine is shinier than yours! :p

and we all know that you got your parents to strip the camo off so you cant really say that!

Did you strip the roof? I was wondering if i could just get away with sanding and painting over mine cos nobodys every going to see it closely except me!

Reply to
Tom Woods

Thats how it was when i sprayed my car. almost collapsed when i was done and got back in! rememeber that youre supposed to replace the filters on the mask after so many hours of use too. (not only do they not filter that well but you can hardly breathe through them!)

the mirror effect should really make them look smaller (or invisible!) ;)

i'm just tired of scraping! and have an unhealthy stack of reciepts for nowt but nitromors!

half of my roof is double skinned anyway since i chequer plated it to cover the holes where the cross was. That doesnt leak atall!

You could perhaps seal it with PVA glue?. Works on bathroom floors!

Reply to
Tom Woods

Lee, Did you use the paint purchased from Gaydon and did it turn out to be cellulose? I've found one reference to Xylene being used in synthetic paint but unclear as to why.

Steve.

Reply to
Stephen Hull

I took the Synth compatible primer I had back to the supplier and swapped it for cellulose primer and got another tin of cellulose thinners. I've applied the spray Xylene based what ever it is mixed 50/50 cellulose thinners without any major problems. Due to spraying uncovered in the great outdoors this time the paint was virtualy dry on application as is to be expected. The finish is a little coarse to the touch as was the Range Rover when I did that. The Range rover polished up a treat after flatting off with 1500's then g3 then polishing... though I could do with going over it again soon as there is the odd patch here and there which need buffing up. I've not bought a air polisher yet , that will have to wait till after my hols..got MOT's x2 imminent.

The paint man (at Gaydon) recommended 10% xylene based thinners... I used

50% (thats the kind of guy I am! ;0) ) cellulose thinners (which had xylene refences in its contents/ingredients). I've not got a viscousity (sp?) cup but I'd have thought 10% thinners would have left the paint too thick.. though it may have gone on in more of a wetter for longer state I expect.

Now the dilema. Morph (101) is a Matt finish but I'd like to remove the coarse finish (to the touch) if I flat it with 1500's and soapy water do you think this should be ok? I suspect so. Visually the paint is fine..but then it's not rocket science getting a psuedo military finish (I couldn't find an origional yard brush!)

I'm looking for a matt but smooth to the touch finish so getting a gloss isn't a problem. Given it will be like flatting a football pitch I can see it being done in installments :0) though to be fair it's a 1500's is a lot less work than the pre paint prep.

First I have to paint the wheels and roof then sort the MOT again.

Any tips for doing wheels? I've flakey matt camo on no doubt a gloss bronze green some where underneath. I'm looking for minimum effort presentible finish.

I have some nitromors left over but will this attack / weaken the tyre valve / tube?

Interestingly I haven't done any prep to the roof area, the overspray seemed happy to sit on the camo paint with out any noticable reactions. I'm hoping to seal the roof , any recomendations for this before the colour gets applied and will the colour sit happily on the recommended (assuming there is one) product.

Many many thanks again, without your pointers I'd have been stripping the first pannel again due to potential reaction between conflicting paints.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

On or around Fri, 17 Jun 2005 21:15:44 +0100, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:

coo. very smart.

I guess that's what you've been up to while the rest of us were getting sunburnt in herefordshire.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Yeah, my sidekick had booked leave so I had to hold the fort :o(

Perhaphs as well as I'm actually begining to get somewhere with the fleet again.

Can we entice you to Billing? Morph may make an appearance..but then if he doesn't one of the fleet will :0)

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

On or around Sun, 19 Jun 2005 23:06:30 +0100, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:

more likely the LRO show which is to be in 3 counties showground this year.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

....and on Bank Holiday weekend. Oh the joy of the M5.

Steve

Reply to
steve Taylor

During this hot weather a slow thinner would have been to your advantage helping the paint atomise better.

A thinning ratio of 10% would be my recomendation for synthetic based paint, cellulose however would be closer to 75%. The first few coats are always applied thin to retain the flat previously prepared surface and the last coat sprayed on thicker usually

50-50 this gives the finish a wet look which gives you an easier time polishing or compounding.

Flatting with 1500 will work providing the wet-or-dry is coarse enough to remove your rough areas, failing that try 1200 or 800.

I use one of those 3M "clean n strip" fibre discs on an electric drill, It will remove stubborn rust deposits with causing any damage to your metalwork.

Stick a tube over the valve or tape it up, I wouldn't recommend prolonged contact with paint removers on rubber or plastic components, Even turps can dissolve certain types of rubber.

The overspray was probably dry before settling on the roof or at least has dried well before reaction could take place. As a sealer barrier or isolating coat I'd recommend "Barcote" it's a greeny yellow colour ready to use straight from the tin no thinning required and it easily covers in one coat as recommended.

No Prob ;)

Steve.

Reply to
Stephen Hull

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