101 ambi timing ?

Which is 1,3,5,7 on the RIGHT hand (viewed from the front of the engine) with 1 at the front and 2,4,6,8 on the LEFT ?

Just checking.

Compression failure next ?

Steve

On or around Wed, 25 Aug 2004 21:52:27 +0100, Steve Taylor enlightened us thusly:

doubt it. has it ever run (with you, I mean)?

check the ignition lead sequence, it's dead easy for it to be wrong, and results in no go.

check also that it's not correct sequence but timed one "plug" out - I've had that before and had to move all the leads round one. In fact, the recommended "home" (#1) position is not the same for all distributors, either.

so:

place engine at TDC, #1 firing stroke, check that rotor points to #1 lead, check that other leads are in sequence, as per the book.

Erm, the engine doesn't know - or care, if it's in a left or right hookah ;-)

My guess would be that the dizzie is loose or has moved. Try seeing if it'll move, if so, move it a bit at a time and see where you get it to fire up. Then fine tune it.

Do this, obviously, after correctly setting the HT leads to match your (working) GS :-)

No, this is in the vehicle with the utterly ferked wiring - we've rigged wires to get sparks, starter motor, fuel pump etc. Once we get the engine running, the whole bloody loom is coming right out.

What's the simplest way to find that ?

Incidentally, its just struck us that despite the fact we were cranking the thing for an extended period, the battery didn't die. Can the valves stick after three years not running ?

I'v never had to bring an engine back from the dead before.

Thanks Austin.

Steve

You could give it the kiss of life!

On or around Wed, 25 Aug 2004 22:55:15 +0100, Steve Taylor enlightened us thusly:

either lift the odd bank rocker cover so you can look at the valves, or pull #1 plug and turn the engine slowly until you feel compression with yer thumb over the hole. poke a longish thin bit of wire down the plughole and continue to turn it until you get to TDC. You should find that this corresponds with timing marks on the pulley, assuming you can see them.

back to the compression thing - the valves won't stick but the rings might've. If you've got a compression tester, you might try a compression test.

No, but the rings do, which would mean lower compression. Mind you, my V8 used to crank for bloody ages on a big battery when it refused to start.

Alex

Steve,

Ignition timing is 3 degrees BTDC static and dynamic at 600 Rpm. Firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 with no 1 as front right bank. Right is uneven and left is even numbers Dwel angle is 26-28 degrees at 600rpm

This applies to 24 and 12 v 101 V8's. Info taken from workshop manual on the 101.

Hope this helps!

J Kaye

Steve,

When you get chance record the serial number off the dizzy as there are about 3 or 4 different timing settings for the Rangie engine and the 101 Aint far removed and uses lucas dizzy. Ours is way off the figures quoted by J_Kaye and would never start at that.

I've got an old rangie manual here, once you know the Dizzy number bung it this way.

Lee D

You're right about that. The Mallory thing on mine had Warren really scratching his head. He eventually settled at (IIRC) 16 degrees BTDC.

Hi Lee,

Where does it lurk ? I don't really want to remove the dizzy to find the number if I can help it...

Steve

Seem to recall it's viewable on the casting as seen from the passenger seat (RHD) when stood on your head with your ear next to the Hi/Lo lever ;o)

Lee D

As predicted, the %$^$&^£&* dizzy is 180 degrees wrong- thanks for all the tips from the gang - did the finger on the plug hole trick and got it first time.

Fired on the first pull !!!

Now, to the V8 oil pressure thread...

Steve

In message , Austin Shackles writes

I am not that familiar with the v8, but is it possible that the dizzy has been put on 180deg out?

In my (limited) experience with 2 Range Rovers and an SD1 this is entirely likely - for some reason it "looks" more correct when it's on backwards.

P.

As I reported on Tuesday it was 3/8 out !

Steve