109 2.25 Diesel, air in fuel line.

Dec 19, 2006 7 Replies

Hello,



I've had a running problem with my old SIII since I bought her. I've changed the lift pump, replaced the (numerious bits of rubber joined) fuel line from the tank to the engine bay with a single run of copper to the lift pump, but I can still see air getting in. I can see the air in a single piece of test clear fuel line between the lift pump and the fuel filter on the bulk head.



The new copper run is joined at the tank end with a piece of rubber and jubilee clips. I have it going straight into the lift pump.



I cannot see any fuel leaks or signs of seepage anywhere.



The symptom of this is spluttering and eventually stalling once (especially noticable once warmed up and under load, under load=going up a slight incline).



Any ideas on how to further diagnose this?



TIA,



Nick


Nick White uttered summat worrerz funny about:

How about the pickup in the tank? Had this on a 1990 RRC about 2 years ago.. though it had perforated at the bit outside the tank the perforation was big enough to suck in air but small enough to prevent a leak... go figure!

Lee D

Get a length of rubber hose connect to lift pump and dunk it in a clean can of fuel and try that if ok would probably be the tube in the tank

Rich

If the copper pipe runs along the chassis and straight into the lift pump it will eventually crack and leak due to the movement of the engine on its flexible mountings and the jubilee clips at the tank end will leak as jubilee clips don't tighten evenly on the pipe (I mean leak as in draw air in). Chuck this pipe away and fit a proper one made of nylon with pressed in fittings! If the lift pump has a glass sediment bowl this can draw air in past the neoprene sealing ring at the top, make sure it is seated properly. Also check for a blocked filter on the tank dip pipe.

It may draw in air through perforation but it won't leak whilst running because it is under suction from the lift pump.

Martin

On or around Wed, 20 Dec 2006 01:01:16 -0000, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:

Traditionally, you have a couple of coils in it between a fixed part and the engine.

that or a rubber section between the 2. Found that the brake pipe flaring kit (which does other sizes, of course) was handy for making a bulge in the end of 8mm microbore so that you can seal a rubber pipe onto it better.

Traditionally? Jeez Austin, how old are you? :-) Last motor I had with one of those was a 1933 Morris 10/4 and IIRC they didn't make Landrovers then. I seem to remember them making the first one out of a Jeep in 1947. ;-)

Microbore's alright but I would say it's too soft for vehicle application, but yes, the single flare is a good idea, done that myself.

Martin

On or around Wed, 20 Dec 2006 12:04:36 -0000, "Oily" enlightened us thusly:

I'm not that old, just have an interest in all things mechanical. Some of the old ones are a work of art.

A 'pigtail' is still a certification requirement in automotive LPG piping (at least in NZ).

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