110 Spring Swap.

Rear springs on the 110 are goosed,

Nige how bad a job are they? I know you changed them and it sat fine... until I added a few too many Ikea straws,

:0(

I will be fitting the none self leveling springs ala Camel as I have some extra weight due to the rack, deck and cage (dog cage).

Any to avoid peeps? Likewise recommendations.

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D
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piss easy, use a hi-lift to get the arse end up really high, use some kind of stabilisation, just like i did (nothing) Let the axle fall as far as you can, the spring will drop out anyway. On a 110 you dont really need spring compressors.

You will need prybars,hammers & a vocabuluary like mine, but you'll do it.

Easier than nicking motorists, matey :)

Reply to
Nige

H'mmm no hi lift... but I get the idea. I seem to recall on the RRC I raised one wheel up on a ramp , then jacked the opposite side up, removed the wheel and dropped the axle that side to get the articulation. The wheel being off making access simpler and articulation greater. Sounds like it may work the same on the 110.

I do have compressors , but I hate using them as I always expect them to burst and for shrapnel to start flying.... though I've never seen it happen or heard of it they just seem to be wrong.

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

Have i already done that 110? If so, should be easy enough to get the stuff off.

Angle grind the old springs off, you don't need to, but it makes you look/feel hard :)

Reply to
Nige

Yep.

LMAO!

;0)

Suddenly I feel the need for a gas axe!

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

Really easy job Lee, done it about 5 times now :)

You'll have to drop the shockers, but do that at the top, not the bottom.

Then, it's vrim vrim vrim with the nice t' angle grinder...

Reply to
Nige

If you do disconnect the shockers, remember not to strain the brake hose(s).

Reply to
Dougal

110 Sorted.. Much better ride height now, though the front in about 1 3/4 inch lower.... to the point I need to ajust the headlights!

Fronts when pennies permit....

which may be the first of never as the FFRR needs a turbo and a set of injectors (preventative as one failed last summer) = skint me!!

Turbo is a bitch to get to requiring the removal of the inlet / injectors and air intake to afford access unless someone knows something I don't.

I've managed to work it all down to around £1450 with my turbo being reconned and my injectors being recond too.

Lee D

Reply to
Lee_D

The L322 td6 turbo sounds like it needs one even if it don't Lee, what evidence have you got it needs one?

The front springs on the 110 are much shorter than the rears, easy as shit job.

Reply to
Nige

Whistle at 1600rpm upwards and 77000 miles which is apparently a good innings. Prior to a recent motorway run it didn't whistle , it sounds like the one that failed on my VM Rangie , bearings going. Only time it made a peep previously was on deceleration sort of a feint dump valve sound.

It appears BMW built the frigging engine around the turbo.

I don't fancy the devastation that running on its own oil would lead to and with some serious miles ahead I can't take the chance.

Light at the end of the tunnel!

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

Nige,

Did yours have a whistle about 1600 rpm upwards under gentle acceleration, very feint? I've read several postings now that suggest this is "normal" on the M57 engine (mainly on BMW forums). It just seems odd that it didn't previously do it and now it does. I can probably get off the estate and its quiet, then it starts to whistle as the engine has warmed. I am really reluctant to shell out to send it off if it is a BMW oddity but also on egde as I don't fancy the engine eating its self.

Dilema!

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

Standard or "after market" air filter? You don't want a "high flow" boy racer chav rebore job on them, even microscopic dust they let past will wear the compressor blades.

Check hoses pipes etc for splits holes loose bits etc. Turbo's whistle, they just do. As things change over time, other sounds come/go/change.

Quite frankly, being able to hear it working, can help you drive more forgivingly, saving a shed load of fuel...

If it ain't broke, don't mess with it. Unless you are planning an expedition to cross continents unsuported that is.

Dave B.

Reply to
Dave Baxter

I took mine in twice for it & that pfft noise when you take your foot off the gas, they all do it & i tried another one, it was exactly the same, any blue smoke?

Reply to
Nige

No none, All I can think is that maybe a recent trip (without the caravan) has cleared out some soot. I can't here my Pffft any more.. but the whistle is there, infact the whistle is similar to the pffft only constant under acceleration / load , maybe I need to try harder.

Dave the air filter is standard as is the car mechanically. We are touring around europe later in the year again, but its not the desert. Regards checking hoses, that is half the problem, you can't see them or access the turbo without dismantling the engine.

Popping out to check the hoses I can see again,maybe I overlooked something, followed by a road test again to test my confidence levels.

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

Right been back out, all hoses I can check , vac type are in place and complete. I am reassured my Pffft is still there , I had just become deaf to it. Regardst the whistle on load. It is only really noticable between 1600 ish and say 2100 rpm where I assume the sound then beomes absorbed by the rest of the engines song.

Other engine users (in X5 and 330 BMW) report that the whistle sounds like that of a "Big Rig" when spooling up, I can confirm it is similar only on a scale to suit the size of the engine. I'm going to let time progress on this one I think. Maybe I have become more tuned to the vehicles noises since a recent suspension issue and the fact the outside temperature is now sufficently warm enough to open the window. Maybe its time for a new CD or two, that usually helps get rid of such niggles.

It will be going in on the 12th for fettling, Injectors are going to be overhauled prior to our next big trip with the Caravan seeing as one of the six let us down last summer and the remaining 5 have been under equal pressure I'm not taking any chances here. Refurb - £120 at the most, replacement injectors are £250 upwards. plus the labour (can be as bad as

2.5 hours per injector I have read as the M57 engine like to keep a firm grip on them! Lets hope that isn't the case here). I also didn't realise that the Injectors need to be set up to the ECU so if you are swapping more than one it definately needs to be plugged in to some Landrover trickery to set them all up to be happy.

I really love the Rangie, but the simplicity of the 110 TD also has an attraction, something tells me that the Rangies are unlikely to make great ages like my 110.... then again maybe the same can be said for the current

110's too. I can see there being a market for Tdi reconditioning for some time to come!

Thanks all!

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

It's not an exhaust manifold/gasket leak is it? All bolts/studs in place?

(PS: I've lost track - which engine is this?)

Reply to
Dougal

No not the manifold, but I see what you are thinking. Engine is the TD6 (BMW lump aka M57D) in the Rangie L322.. I do go off at some extreme tangents ;0)

Lee

Reply to
Lee_D

Dont stress on the Turbo mate, they are noisy, personally, i wouldn't do the injectors either.

Bet you can get new ones cheaper.

Testbook would cost 30-40 to prog em on.

Reply to
Nige

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