300 TDi head gasket

rumour (via the RAC) has it that ours has blown it's head gasket. apparently, it's pressurising the water system and blowing water out. This has become apparent after it overheated, I know not how severely.

I intend fetching it back on the trailer (it's up at Bala) and will then have to fix it.

What am I likely to need for this exercise, any guesses on what I might find apart from the blown gasket, is it worth doing the timing belt at the same time? I doubt the timing belt actually has to be disturbed to lift the head, though I've not actually looked in the book yet.

Reply to
Austin Shackles
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Austin Shackles wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com: (Snipped)

Whatever else you do, don't forget to replace the head bolts. I think you can measure them to check they haven't stretched (and thusly lost the ability to be torqued down) but having been there with one of my Peug 504's, I'd replace them anyway.

Derry

Reply to
Derry Argue

Sound advice indeed. My regular engine parts supplier won't warranty a head gasket without new bolts (if they're the torque to yield type).

Reply to
EMB

On or around Sat, 24 Jul 2004 22:03:32 +0100, Austin Shackles enlightened us thusly:

further to the following, and after reading the book...

what's the thought on the matter of different gaskets?

is it worth measuring the piston protrusion as described, or is it simpler/easier/safer to fit a 3-hole gasket anyway?

and further, I assume, it should be safe to refit the same type of gasket as is currently fitted... is this a valid assumption.

I think it fairly unlikely that this engine has ever been apart before, since it's only just got to 90K miles from new which I'm fairly sure is genuine.

I'll lift the head later on.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Yes, but I would say that :)

Sort of with several caveats...

When you end up having to deal with engines that have been reconditioned by monkeys, or built by an unknown quantity (and I include Land Rover in that) it's best to check and fit the right one.

Reply to
Niamh Holding

By which I mean it is worth measuring and buying the right one.

FWIW the last 200TDI we did; just looking before pulling the head we swore it was a 2 hole, whereas it was actually a 3 hole, and it needed a 2 hole.

Reply to
Niamh Holding

At work we just replace the gasket on engines known to be in factory condition with another of the same spec.

Reply to
EMB

EMB wrote in news:ce692d$u7m$ snipped-for-privacy@lust.ihug.co.nz:

Isn't this an aluminium head? If so, shouldn't it be checked for distortion (flatness)? And skimmed if not flat? Then a thicker gasket to compensate?

Excuse my ignorance but this was almost routine with the old Peugeot 2.3 engines -- which blew gaskets with monotonous regularity. That's when I learnt about stretched bolts! :( Another thing to loook for was cracks.... Those were the days!

Derry

Reply to
Derry Argue

On or around 27 Jul 2004 20:14:59 GMT, Derry Argue enlightened us thusly:

It will be checked. might get it pressure-tested as well, we'll see what it looks like. according to the information I have, it overheated enough that it almost siezed. It's running (imperfectly) now though, enough to drive onto the trailer anyway.

that too. I've not had occasion to lift a LR TDi head personally, hence the questions.

I'd give good odds that this one's never been lifted, mind, based on condition and mileage.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

On or around Sat, 24 Jul 2004 22:03:32 +0100, Austin Shackles enlightened us thusly:

OK...

head now off.

preliminary observations... gasket had been blowing between 2 and 3. gasket appears to have been intact until it was lifted, i.e. no actual missing bits.

no obvious signs of damage to pistons or bores - anyone who can think of a way of checking pistons/bores for damage caused by a partial seizure without taking it apart any more gets a prize. I'll turn it and see if it's free all the way round, and check the bores visually, but I suspect the only way I'm likely to find out is to reassemble with a new head gasket and hope. If any pistons or rings are dodgy, it'll then become apparent.

pistons look nice and clean. slight coating of soot, ditto on injector nozzles.

I assume that it's recommended to fit new injector sealing washers on reassembly...

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Put it back together and do compression & leak down tests.

Well depends if you want to do it right, or bodge it :)

Reply to
Niamh Holding

On or around Wed, 28 Jul 2004 13:10 +0100 (BST), snipped-for-privacy@4x4cymru.spamtrapped.co.uk (Niamh Holding) enlightened us thusly:

and then find that it's wrong... which is the bit I hoped to avoid. However... bores look OK on examination with a decently-bright light, so inclined to chance it. I think I might do the timing belt, in fact, if only so as to see if it looks naff and to make sure the valve are timed right, cf. other post.

I doubt the cost of injector washers will break the bank. I'll probably take the injectors up the road to the garage and get 'em pressure-tested, while they're out, too.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

It's a bugger!

Sadly you can't get to see the state of the rings.

Personally (& professionally) I'd be taking the chance to set the valve clearances too.

At 90K I would replace it without even thinking if it has never been done... without bothering to actually look it up I think they are a 60K service item.

While your doing all that also consider dropping the pump in for testing too. We use South West Electro Diesel down on the Cillefwr estate.

Reply to
Niamh Holding

On or around Wed, 28 Jul 2004 18:29 +0100 (BST), snipped-for-privacy@4x4cymru.spamtrapped.co.uk (Niamh Holding) enlightened us thusly:

goes without saying, especially as I can never be arsed with all that knowing which pushrod came from which hole...

The belt has been changed, but I think it was about 40K ago. The book says

72K or 36K, depending on use and environment.

don't think I'll bother with the pump, it was running OK afor it went wrong...

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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