88" rear propshaft

I've installed a LT77 and LT230 in my 88" series III, modified the
front axle to accept the half shafts fom a Stage I with CV joints and
replaced the Rover rear axle with a Salisbury to withstand the
torque(retaining the original final drives).
After cutting the propshafts to the correct new lengths and having had
no problem with the front, the rear propshaft yoke at the handbrake
drum went out of angle, could not accept the angle required because of
the short length and the difference in height between the transfer case
and axle(parabolic spring).
Has anybody experienced the same problem ? Any yoke that has a greater
angle capability ?
Thanks !
Reply to
rovieman
In message
Have you tilted the Sailsbury axle? You'll need to do this to get acceptable angles on the prop. Make, or have made, some wedges that go from however-many-mm-required to nothing and put them between the axle tube and spring.
Richard
Reply to
beamendsltd
Yes, I have Richard. Since the 88" chassis is narrower than the 109", I had to move the spring mountings(or whatever you call it)on the axle inwards and at the same time gave it a 7 degree tilt. The yoke at the axle end is OK but at the transfer case end is where the trouble is. I'll try to grind a couple of thou off and give it some clearance which hopefully would be enough to accomodate the extra angle. Thanks anyway Richard !
Reply to
rovieman
Yes, I have Richard. Since the 88" chassis is narrower than the 109", I had to move the spring mountings(or whatever you call it)on the axle inwards and at the same time gave it a 7 degree tilt. The yoke at the axle end is OK but at the transfer case end is where the trouble is. I'll try to grind a couple of thou off and give it some clearance which hopefully would be enough to accomodate the extra angle. Thanks anyway Richard !
Reply to
rovieman
There are yokes around with greater angular capability than the standard rear yokes. Did the early RR use them on the front shaft?
If you can't grind your way out of the problem try your local propshaft reconditioning place.
Make sure to give some positive clearance (i.e. a bit more than just enough) to allow for clearance in the neeedle roller bearing especially when it wears. Take the meat off the flange rather than the bearing housings.
Reply to
Dougal
On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 12:00:31 +0000, Dougal scribbled the following nonsense:
Either that or a double cardon prop shaft, scrapiron racing
formatting link
sell quite a lot of these to people with lifted or extreme suspension vehicles to allow the props to operate normally without binding.
Reply to
Simon Isaacs
Thanks everyone ! I'll get back with the result of grinding(the flange) in a couple of days. Scorpion Racing will be the last resort since I'm in Indonesia.
Hertriono Kartowisastro
Reply to
rovieman
Hi, if you could measure from the mating side of the flange to the centre of the spider cap where the cir clip is with the prop straight I could tell you the size of the ones on my SIIA 88" V8 Land Rover, I had the same problem and got some props with long reach Yokes, as far as I can remember they were standard items for Land Rovers or Range Rovers but I don't know what they were off as the chap I got them from just had a stack of props and I just searched through them. Good luck and happy Land Rovering
Rich -- To reply remove " spam "
Reply to
Rich
I've done it ! Grinded the flange through and a slight bit on the bearing housing and got plenty of play/clearance now. Answering your question Rich, it's 1-7/16". What's yours ? Thanks again everybody !
Hertriono
Reply to
rovieman

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